Learn
How to Pack a Backpack
Backpacks can vary widely in size and features, but efficient packing relies on a few common
principles. Packing a backpack can be broken down into three zones: the bottom, core, and top of
the pack. As you pack, you’ll want to consider the weight and shape of each item, as well as how
often you need to access your gear.
Ideally, a well-loaded pack will feel balanced when resting on your hips and nothing should be
shifting or swaying inside. As you walk, the pack should feel stable and predictable, one with your
upper body.
If possible, first pack your backpack at home. You can spread out your gear on a clean floor,
visually confirm you’ve got everything, and feel less rushed as you load up.
Use a checklist to ensure you’ve got everything you need.
Backpack Access
Most backpacks feature a top-loading opening to reach the main compartment. Some packs also
offer a zippered front panel that folds open, exposing the full interior of the pack, or a side
zipper, which also makes it easier to reach items deeper in your pack.
Your pack might also feature a sleeping bag compartment, a zippered stash spot near the
bottom of the bag. It’s a useful feature if you don’t want to use a stuff sack for your sleeping bag.
Alternately, this space can hold other gear that you’d like to reach easily.
Packing the Bottom of Your Backpack
The bottom of the pack is where you should stash items you won’t need until you make camp at
night. Most backpackers shove their sleeping bag into the bottom of the pack. This is also where
you might keep long underwear being used as sleepwear, a pillowcase and a sleeping pad (if it
rolls up into a tiny shape).
Any other needed-only-at-night items can go down low except a headlamp or flashlight. Always
have your light source in a readily accessible space.
In bear country? Try to keep your sleeping bag separated from anything that can transmit a
fragrance. Bears can’t distinguish between food and non-food aromas, so toothpaste or sunscreen
can attract their interest as well as tea bags or jerky.
Packing the Core of Your Backpack
Heavier items should be centered in your pack—not too high, not too low. The goal is to create a
predictable, comfortable center of gravity. Heavy items too low cause a pack to feel saggy. Too
high and the load might feel tippy.
Your heaviest items should be placed on top of your sleeping bag and close to your spine. Usually
these items will be your food stash, water supply and cook kit and stove. If carrying liquid
fuel, make sure your fuel bottle cap is on tightly. Pack the bottle upright and place it below your
food in case of a spill.
Wrap softer, lower-weight items around the weightier items to prevent heavier pieces from
shifting. Your tent body, rainfly, insulation layer and a rain jacket can help stabilize the core and
fill empty spaces.
Hydration reservoir:
: Most newer packs include a hydration reservoir sleeve. This is a slot that
holds a reservoir close to your back and parallel to your spine. It’s easier to insert the reservoir
while the pack is still mostly empty, so that leaves you 2 choices:
If you prefer efficiency, insert the reservoir at home. You’ll have a loaded pack ready to go as
soon as you reach the trailhead.
If you want the coldest water possible, carry the reservoir in a cooler and load it and your other
middle- and upper-pack contents at the trailhead.
Bear canisters:
: Put your canister in the pack’s main compartment, closest to your back. Always
fill a bear canister to its maximum capacity. Any room not occupied by food should be used for
other scented items. If short on space, lash the canister under your top lid.
Packing the Top and Periphery of your Backpack
Top lid:
Many packs offer a zippered top lid. You can stash frequently used items and keep them
within easy reach. This might include your
map,compass, GPS, sunscreen, sunglasses, headlamp, bug spray, first-aid kit, snacks, rain
gear, packcover, toilet paper and sanitation trowel. You can also place these in external pockets, if
you have them. Some packs even offer small pockets on the hipbelt.
Sleeping pad:
You may need an extra set of straps to attach it to a lash point on the top of the
pack or near your waistline on the outside of the pack. Another option: put it beneath your top
pocket (lid) and the top opening of the pack, then tighten the lid to the pack. The pad may be
vulnerable to slipping out either side, so secure the pad to the pack with an extra strap or two.
(Note: It’s fine to carry tent poles and a sleeping pad inside a pack if you have the space.)
Tent poles:
: If your pack offers elasticized side pockets, place the poles down one side of the
pack, behind one or more compression straps, with one end of the poles in the pocket.
Trekking poles:
Same deal; just put the grips in the pocket and the tips pointing upward.
Ice axe:
: External tool loops make it possible to carry an inverted axe on your back until it’s
needed.
Crampons:
Carry them inside your pack in a protective case. Or, lash them to the outside of the
pack as long as you use protective point covers.
Other tools:
Some packs offer a series of external stitched loops called a daisy chain. Use it to
clip or tie small items on your pack.
Note:
Minimize the amount of gear you attach to your pack’s exterior. External items can
potentially get snagged on brush in areas of dense vegetation. Too much external gear could also
jeopardize your stability.
Other Tips for Packing a Backpack
Fill up all empty spaces.
For example, put utensils, a cup or a small item of clothing inside your
cooking pots. Fill up your bear canister.
Stuff sacks:
: Some may prefer the low-chaos/easy-organization of stuff sacks, while others simply
prefer to pack soft items loosely in the pack to use up all available room. Experiment with your
own gear and decide which method most appeals to you.
Share the weight
of large communal items (e.g., tent) with others in your group. You carry the
main body, for example, and your friend can carry the poles and rainfly.
Compression straps:
Tighten all compression straps to limit load-shifting.
Rain cover:
: Carry a pack rain cover and keep it easily accessible. Though some backpacks are
made with waterproof fabric, they have seams and zippers that are vulnerable to seepage during
a downpour. A pack cover is worth its weight when rain becomes persistent.
Repair items:
Wrap strips of duct tape around your water bottles or trekking poles just in case;
if a strap pops or some other disaster occurs, a quick duct tape fix could keep you going. Take
along a few safety pins in case a zipper fails.
Breathing
A man stops to see the view of a small island from a high altitude.
A high altitude brings with it beautiful scenery and what feels like thinner air. You may be on
vacation at a high altitude or be participating in rock climbing or hiking and find you are struggling
for breath. Your body increases your respiration rate in an effort to bring in more oxygen. You can
perform a few breathing techniques to work with your lungs and not against them.
Oxygen
In “Exercising into Thin Air,” Karp indicates that the reason you have difficulty breathing at high
altitudes is that the barometric pressure decreases as you ascend. This results in less oxygen
entering your lungs as you breathe. The oxygen level in the air does not change. Air contains
20.93 percent oxygen regardless of where you are standing on earth. It is the barometric pressure
that causes the change as oxygen enters your body.
Deep Breathing
One way to compensate for a decreased intake of oxygen at high altitudes is to slow down your
breathing rate, but increase the depth of your breaths. Instead of breathing quick, shallow and
only in your lungs, breathe slow, deep and inhale until your stomach expands. As your activity
increases and your breathing rate speeds, increase the frequency of your breaths, but keep the
inhales deep and concentrated.
Pressure Breathing
A technique to increase the amount of carbon dioxide as you exhale is to purse your lips and
forcefully exhale. In “Ten Non-Medicated Ways to Cope with Altitude,” C.W. Shurman writes that
this technique may allow for an easier oxygen exchange in your lungs. Shurman also suggests
slowing your pace in an effort to slow your breathing to a level that will allow you to continue your
exercise with consistency, instead of pausing to breathe. The goal is to avoid overexertion.
Gloves
A Seasoned Alpinist Shares His Secrets,
by Coley Gentzel
AAI Instructor and Guide
Planning for and acquiring the proper equipment for mountain climbing has sent more than one
would be summiteer into a tailspin of frustration and doubt. In this edition of AAI’s Expert Tips,
we are going to talk about glove systems for our high altitude activity.
Glove systems constitute one of the most perplexing areas of gear selection that face most
aspiring-and even experienced-alpine climbers. No one system is “the right one,” and personal
preference plays a large role in selecting a strategy for keeping your hands warm and dry while
maintaining the degree of dexterity that you need for your chosen objective. The notes below
focus on glove systems for mountaineering; however, some of the principles can be transferred to
other outdoor activities such as alpine rock climbing, skiing and snowboarding, and ski
mountaineering.
Before we get too far into this discussion, let’s explore some of the finer points of a material you
will hear referenced in the notes below:
Fleece. Shortly after its introduction into the performance clothing line, it became a buzzword
amongst outdoor enthusiasts. At the time, fleece was the best thing going since sliced salami and
dehydrated meals. Since the birth of fleece, however, there have been significant changes in
materials and technology that now make this once revolutionary material somewhat obsolete. If
you still count yourself amongst the fleece loyalists, as I once did, it’s time to let go. It will be for
your own good, and you will never look back unless it is to cast a look of disbelief at your former
preference for the bulky, sponge-like, non-windproof, fuzz-ball collecting garments. That said,
fleece still has a few applications in modern clothing and equipment combinations hence its
inclusion in the descriptions below. Just know that if you continue to stuff your fleece jackets,
pants, and other garments into your backpack, lighter, more compressible, warmer, and more
wind and water resistant options exist for the same or less money. I encourage you to embrace
the new era of Primaloft and Polarguard.
Let’s get started.
STEP 1 – Estimate Conditions
To figure out what sort of glove system will work well, estimate the temperatures and conditions
(read potential for getting wet) that may be encountered on your trip. It’s no secret that
forecasting mountain weather and conditions is, at best, difficult. Your estimation will be based on
some factors you will know and some you cannot know. Until you gain some experience with what
works and what doesn’t (and what you can get away with), take a conservative approach and err
on the side of warmer and more waterproof.
STEP 2 – Consider your objective and the nature of the climbing
Consider what degree of dexterity and sensitivity is required from your hand wear for your
planned climb. Generally speaking, the more technical and complex the climbing, the more
dexterity (thin, form fitting gloves) will become a consideration. You will gradually get a better feel
for this through experience and exposure to variable conditions. Unless you know what you can
get away with, play it on the safer side (readwarm and dry) as opposed to using a higher
performance glove that offers less protection.
For climbing where you will not need to manipulate carabiners, tie knots, and perform relatively
delicate operations with your fingers, just about any waterproof and insulated glove will do.
However, even most basic mountaineering ascents usually require several of the processes
mentioned above, so having some degree of dexterity is necessary. With gloves that are too big
and/or too bulky you will spend a lot of time fighting the gloves, and this will cost you precious
time on the climb. In more technical situations, improper hand wear not only costs time, it costs a
margin of safety. Ill-fitting gloves can lead to premature fatigue, create difficulty in placing
protection and clipping into anchors, and cause instability while on technical ground.
STEP 3 – Choose a glove system
There are more makes and models of gloves out there than you can shake an ice axe at.
Hopefully the steps above will help you narrow down the field a bit. Once you have a handle on
the expected temperatures and conditions, and you know what degree of difficulty your objective
will involve, do some research to figure out which makes and models may be appropriate. If you
already own several pairs of gloves, this process will be a matter of determining if you have a gap
in your system that needs filling or choosing the right combination.
When shopping for gloves, account for the all of the possibilities in a certain product category, and
then compare things like weight, materials used, construction, and design functionality. Everyone
loves to get their hands on new gear before they decide to buy it, but there are so many choices
on the market you probably won’t be able to inspect every good option firsthand. Patagonia, Black
Diamond, Outdoor Research, Marmot, Mountain Hardwear, and REI all offer a range of gloves in
different areas of functionality. Brands and models are discussed in the Sample Systems Chart
below.
Think of this process as choosing a glove system because you may be using layers(a liner and a
glove, or possibly a waterproof shell and system of liners), and because carrying only one set of
gloves and liners is never enough. Your hands are your ability to function and take care of
yourself, so a great deal of care should be taken to ensure they stay properly insulated and
functional. Always take an extra system. The system you are wearing can and will get wet over
the course of a typical day, and, if you are on an extended trip, it will likely be a while before they
are dry again. For technical climbing and expeditions, AAI guides often take a complete set of
extra gloves for all of the systems they plan to use except for expedition mittens.
SAMPLE GLOVE SYSTEMS
Summer Glacier Mountaineering
While approaching your camp or hiking during the day, you will more than likely need little to
protect your hands. However, while traveling on snow it is always a good idea to have some sort
of protection on your hands, even if temperatures don’t dictate the need for gloves for keeping
your hands warm. When trying to self arrest, use your ice axe, or in the event of a fall, your
hands can get badly abraded by the snow or by pieces of gear, causing you to lose purchase on
your axe. You may also find yourself in the position of unexpectedly rescuing yourself or others. A
light pair of fleece, Powerstretch or Schoeller/softshell gloves will work well for this layer. For a
pre-dawn alpine start, a warmer, mid-weight pair of gloves such as the Black Diamond Verglas,
Black Diamond Ice Glove, or Patagonia Stretch Element Glove would probably be the warmest
glove you will need. For a three-day climb on a peak such as Mount Baker or Mount Rainier in the
Cascades, one (two, if wet conditions are expected) pair of lighter gloves and one pair of mid-
weight gloves should be adequate.
The System: fleece/softshell and mid-weight insulated/waterproof gloves.
Winter Mountaineering
While climbing, skiing, and mountaineering in the winter, your hands are gloved almost 100% of
the time. Snow tends to lend itself to melting and invading every possible orifice in clothing
causing wetness wherever and whenever it comes into contact with clothing and equipment. For
these reasons, and because of the usually very cold temperatures, it’s good to have several types
of gloves handy, possibly doubling up on one or more of them. For moving during the day or in
milder winter temperatures, a heavier pair of fleece gloves or Schoeller gloves, like the Mountain
Hardwear Windshear, Black Diamond Windstopper Tech, or Patagonia Windproof Gloves might be
adequate. More likely, a mid-weight glove will be the choice for most activity, especially if you
intend have your hands in the snow a fair amount of the time. A pair of lighter fleece or
Powerstretch gloves will come in handy around camp for some light protection while cooking or
handling cold objects. These are small, weigh nothing, and wear out quickly, so taking an extra
pair is usually a good idea. When it’s very windy, cold, or when your other gloves get wet, you
should have a heavier pair of cold weather gloves (maybe even mitts, depending on the temps,
such as the Black Diamond Guide Glove or Marmot Ultimate Ski Glove).
The System: light liner gloves or fleece/softshell, mid-weight gloves, and heavy gloves or
mittens.
Expedition Climbing
For colder temps, climbing during the day, and for heavy snow work, you will want to have a midrange glove with some insulation, waterproof properties, and durability. Models like the Black
Diamond Ice, Black Diamond Guide Gloves, and Patagonia Stretch Element work well. A heavy
pair of gloves such as the Black Diamond Guide Glove or OR Super Couloir will probably be
needed for very cold temps when dexterity is needed, plus a pair of expedition mitts that will keep
your fingers alive in extremely low temperatures or in the event of an emergency bivy. For tasks
such as cooking and cleaning and life inside the tent, a pair of Powerstretch or light fleece gloves
are perfect. These are small, weigh nothing, and wear out quickly so taking an extra pair is
usually a good idea. A mid-weight pair of fleece gloves or softshell gloves can serve as a backup
and serve slightly different functions like shoveling snow and setting up your tent.
Redundancy in a few of the glove categories is key as you will spend a lot of time in gloves and
need to have a few backup pairs for when you get wet, the gloves wear out, or goodness forbid,
you should lose a pair. Expedition climbing is hard on gear, and gloves are no exception. In
reality, even a well-made and expensive pair will only survive one expedition climb. Towards the
end of a three-week trip, most of gloves will have holes.
The System:
: light liners of fleece/softshell, mid-weight gloves, heavy gloves, and mittens.
Technical Ice or Mixed Climbing
In technical alpine climbing or ice climbing, some degree of warmth is often sacrificed for the sake
of increased dexterity. In short, if you plan to climb higher standard rock and ice routes in cold
weather, expect to have cold fingers and toes and get to know and deal with the “screaming
barfies” really well (that’s what you feel when your cold fingers or toes get the first rush of blood
back into them causing extreme pain and making you want to scream and/or barf). An alpinist’s
ability to use their fingers and manipulate carabiners, ice screws, and rock protection is more than
convenience – it can be a matter of life and serious injury or death. Take two pairs of the glove in
which you plan to spend the most time.
For cold weather technical climbing, the Black Diamond Drytool Glove or the Black Diamond Ice
Glove is an excellent choice. For an all-day alpine route with the possibility of getting benighted,
take two pairs of your action gloves AND a pair of warmer gloves. This may sound like a lot of
gloves and pack space, and it is. But this approach can save tremendous difficulty and the
potential for frostbite. Here’s why. If your first pair becomes wet and frozen beyond use you still
need reasonably warm and dexterous fingers. Even with a second pair, by the top of the climb or
the end of the day, your second pair may become frozen. With this system, you will still have your
warmest and most comfortable gloves for the descent back to camp, sometimes well after
nightfall when cold temperatures have set in. For technical climbing that involves rock and/or
mixed terrain, leather gloves from a hardware store (insulated and un-insulated) can be an
inexpensive and functional alternative to the more expensive options listed above. These can be
slow to dry, but they last a long time and handle rock climbing well.
The System:
Softshell, mid-weight gloves, and heavy gloves.
In Summary
There are some hard and fast rules of thumb when it comes to gloves:
One pair of gloves or liners is never enough
Your gloves will get wet
Your gloves will fall apart – probably sooner than you think.
Obviously the rate of wear will depend on the frequency and nature of use, but there are no
gloves made today, nor will there probably ever be, that can stand up to the rigors of
mountaineering for more than a season or two while maintaining their integrity and waterproof
properties. Most active mountaineers find themselves having to replace their gloves every season,
more often for activities such as ice and mixed climbing or expedition climbing. Remember,
keeping your hands warm and dry, and also planning your system to give you adequate dexterity
and sensitivity can save your hands, if not your life.
Bonus tip: Drying and waterproofing your gloves
There are a few tips and tricks you will hear floating around about how to dry your gloves and
clothing on a multi-day trip, and you probably have a few of your own. While climbing, you can
tuck your wet gloves in the chest pocket of a coat or in the cargo pockets of your parka. They will
dry a bit while moving. This isn’t recommend if wearing a Gore-tex coat because in order to dry,
the gloves need to be able to breath and moisture needs a way out of your clothing system. At
camp you can sleep with your wet gloves on the top of your body so that escaping heat goes
through them (taking moisture along for the ride) before leaving your bag. You can also put wet
items in a sleeping bag with a Nalgene bottle full of hot water (be sure the cap is screwed on
tight!) and accomplish the same thing while you go about other business around camp. Wearing
your wet gloves on your hands in dry conditions or while generating heat (hiking uphill) can be a
quick and easy way to dry your gloves while in action. Be careful of drying gloves next to an open
flame; more than one pair of fleece gloves has met their untimely demise at the hands of an
eager climber with a powerful camp stove.
For gloves with leather or synthetic palms, treating the reinforced portions with waterproofing
products such as Nikwax can increase the life of the glove and keep your hands drier longer. From
time to time, the outside of soft shell or fabric gloves can use a treatment of a DWR (durable
water repellent) such as Techron or Gore’s Revivex. Be careful about washing and/or drying
gloves with a waterproof and breathable rating because the waterproof membranes in these
garments are not very durable. The washing process can break down certain portions of the
membrane, causing your garments to leak.
Trekking Pole
How to Use Hiking Poles / Benefits / Care and Maintenance / Parts / Study Reports etc.
Article source from – REI Website
Antishock Walking Pole 135 Cm. Offer Price Just Rs.400/- (MRP Rs.1200/-) Onwards
And 110 Cm. Offer Price Just Rs.300/- (MRP Rs.900/-)
Hiking poles are of great appeal to trekkers, day walkers and backpackers, though many do not know how to use them to their best advantage. Read on to learn how to use walking poles correctly.
What are the benefits of using walking poles?
There are several reasons to use walking poles when out walking or trekking. Walking poles help you move across terrain quicker, provide additional support and reduce the amount of effort required thus allowing you to achieve more during your walks.
When used correctly walking poles can significantly increase your pace which has additional health benefits. You will increase your heart rate and oxygen uptake without feeling like you are expending vast amounts more energy. The workload will be spread across different muscle groups, not just your legs!
Walking poles also offer increased support and stability on unfamiliar ground and uneven surfaces. The extra two points of contact with the ground will increase your confidence, especially if you are feeling a fatigued towards the end of your walk.
Another great benefit of using walking poles is that they improve posture, especially important if you are carrying a load. Walking poles will make you more conscious of being upright whilst walking. There is a tendency to slump forward whilst going uphill which shifts your centre of gravity and actually increases the chances of slipping or stumbling on uneven terrain. The poles will help you keep your body position more upright so you can use your arms and shoulders to propel yourself up the trail easier.
Setting Up
Firstly you will need to set your walking poles to the correct height, see How to Size Walking Poles for more information on how to do this.
Next, open up the strap to a size whereby you can get your hand through it comfortably, but so it isn’t too loose. Pass your hand up through the loop and then grip the handle, the strap should cross the palm and “wrap” beneath the thumb. Using the strap this way enables a better connect with the pole and helps maintains control over the pole if your grip becomes slippery or you stumble.
Walking Technique with Poles
There is no definitive right or wrong way to use walking poles but there are ways that can help you use them more effectively.
Most walkers use their poles inefficiently, bending their arms at the elbow and placing the pole tip slightly in front to use the pole as support. A more effective way is to keep your arm in a fairly neutral position (which is with a very slight bend) and use the shoulders to propel yourself forwards.
Don’t grip the poles too tightly! Use a relaxed and loose grip on the poles, by using the straps as described above you maintain a good contact with the pole at all times.
Use baskets on your poles when traversing softer or unknown terrain as this will stop the poles from sinking too far into the ground and give you far greater stability and support. Rubber ferrules are useful when traversing ground that the tungsten carbide tips cannot bite into – this will stop the tips from skidding across the surface.
Try to use poles in pairs, whilst it can be said that one pole is better than no pole, using a pair will give you the greatest level of stability and control as well as improving posture.
Walking Downhill
When travelling downhill position the poles slightly in front of you and engage the shock systems so as to lessen the impact of the fall of the hill. If you shorten your stride too, this will take some of the impact stress from the knee joints, especially important if you are carrying a backpack. If the terrain is very steep, icy or muddy, one useful technique is to walk down sideways, ramming the tip of the pole well into the ground and positioning the foot right up to it.
Walking Uphill
On steep uphill sections of your walks, shorten the poles slightly. You should be using the poles to push off not help pull yourself up hill so try not to plant the tip of the pole in front of your lead foot. If the tip is too far forward, you will be using your energy pushing the pole downward instead of backwards. Try to keep the poles reasonably close to the body to improve efficiency too.
Trekking Poles: To Use Benefits
by Seth Levy
Visit any major trail, and many minor ones, and you’ll likely see hikers using trekking poles, matching poles, or walking sticks, specifically designed for hiking. Just a few years ago, many hikers and backpackers didn’t know trekking poles existed, and some that did called them “yuppie sticks” or asked pole users, “How’s the skiing today?” With increased use, though, attitudes about trekking poles are evolving.
It’s not just that it seems like more people are using trekking poles these days: sales figures show that more trekking poles have been sold in the United States in recent years. Sales of trekking poles increased 75 percent from 2007 to 2008, and based on preliminary data, sales of trekking poles are expected to increase another 13 percent from 2009 to 2010, according to Christina DeKraay and Kris Versteegen ofSportsOneSource, a sporting goods industry trade publication.
Increased sales aren’t just reflective of a fad (remember ankle warmers anyone?). Many regular hikers agree — and loudly proclaim — that trekking poles offer significant benefits. If you haven’t yet tried trekking poles, consider the advantages to decide whether they’re a worthwhile addition to your gear closet.
Benefits of Trekking Poles
For the hiker or backpacker undecided about if or when to use trekking poles, a good place to start is by examining the benefits poles can offer.
Strength and Fitness
First, there is evidence that trekking poles enhance the muscle-building and aerobic benefits of hiking. With trekking poles, hikers use upper body muscles they don’t ordinarily engage, like biceps, latissimus dorsi (side muscles), pectorals, and triceps. Regularly engaging these muscles while swinging and placing trekking poles will strengthen them. In addition to building upper body muscles, engaging these muscles during a hike creates a full body workout, enhancing the already significant aerobic benefit of hiking.
Trekking poles also can increase the amount of calories burned while hiking. Studies by the Cooper Institute indicate that using nordic walking poles (similar to hiking poles, but designed to be used on paved surfaces) can increase calories burned by an average of 20 percent. These studies were done in a laboratory environment, so it is reasonable to expect that calorie burning might exceed 20 percent on a steep trail. For hikers trekking for fitness, this is welcome news, but long distance hikers should keep in mind that 20 percent more calories burned means 20 percent more calories have to be carried.
Trekking poles are more than just a workout enhancer, though. Many hikers view fitness as an enjoyable side effect of hiking, but not the primary purpose. So how do poles help those who hike for the sake of hiking?
Stability and Balance
According to Lindy Smith, Nordic Walking Instructor and former Marketing Manager of Leki, a major manufacturer of trekking poles, “they improve posture, balance, and stability.”
Trekking poles provide two extra points of contact with the trail, essentially converting bipedal hikers into four-legged hiking animals. With more points of contact, hikers are less likely to slip in the first place, and slips are less likely to turn into falls.
Take a minute to think about the situations that lead to a fall on the trail: you step up to climb, and the foot you’ve weighted slips in a patch of mud or on a wet root. Without trekking poles, it’s likely that you’ll end up sprawled on the trail. With trekking poles, however, you can brace yourself, retain three points of contact with the trail, and stay on your feet, despite a slip.
Poles also help hikers maintain forward momentum uphill or on tricky terrain, navigate over and around trail obstacles like stream and river crossings, traverse slippery logs and rocks, and improve balance when carrying heavy loads. Many hikers also prefer the steady rhythm of hiking
with trekking poles.
Less Stress on Joints
In addition to preventing falls, studies show that trekking poles also prevent pain and damage associated with repetitive stress injuries. Hiking all day, even without a heavy pack, places extraordinary stress on the ankles, knees, and hips. Many hikers can literally feel this force below their knees on steep descents, and above their knees during steep ascents. Poles recruit other muscles to this task and help transfer the weight, reducing the strain that would ordinarily be exclusively absorbed by the joints and muscles in the lower body alone.
A 2007 study in the journal of the American College of Sports Medicine notes that “[a] reduction in the forces, moments, and power around the joint, with the use of poles, will help reduce the loading on the joints of the lower extremity.”
Less stress on one’s body can mean enjoying more years of hiking and backpacking.
One Pole or Two?
A discussion of trekking poles inevitably leads to this frequently asked question: Does it matter if I use one trekking pole or two? Some hikers, especially those out on shorter hikes, prefer to use just one pole, keeping one hand free. But, it stands to reason that engaging both arms to take the load off the knees is more effective than using one arm alone. Additionally, most experts agree that the balance and stability benefits of two poles are greater than one.
Many hikers find that the benefits poles provide become more obvious over time, or with a heavier pack. AT thru-hiker Jeffrey Hunter (trail name: Little Bear) says that he always uses poles for backpacking, but seldom uses them for shorter hikes with less weight. Similarly, Bill Cooke (trail name: Cooker-Hiker) uses poles all the time, considers them “essential on steep descents,” and “wouldn’t hike without them.” When to use poles comes down to personal preferences. I often don’t use poles on day hikes, but never leave them behind for a multi-day hike.
Potential Drawbacks
Trekking poles provide a considerable range of benefits to hikers — reducing stress on joints and muscles and reducing the likelihood of falling.
Other Considerations
Learning Curve:
In addition to potential ecological impacts, trekking poles have some other minor drawbacks. First, they take a little time to adapt to and the typical learning period can involve frustration. I have seen poles dangling from trees, tossed off cliffs, and abandoned mid-hike. This learning phase typically lasts one to four days on a longer hike, or several day hikes in a season. During this period, trekking poles may get caught, feel unwieldy, or cause a paradoxical loss of balance.
Scrambling:
Even experienced users recognize that trekking poles aren’t appropriate for all situations. On steep trails that call for rock scrambling, trekking poles can get in the way. For example, scrambling through the Appalachian Trail’s Mahoosuc Notch in Maine, most hikers collapse their poles and stow them to make the mile-long trek through car-sized boulders. I frequently collapse and stow my poles during the hand-over-hand climbs that are common in New England. Trekking poles may simply be in the way if you’re hiking off-trail or through blow down.
Air Travel:
Another consideration is the potential difficulty of traveling with poles. This winter, I finished the Appalachian Trail and found myself in Atlanta with a plane ticket home. Carrying on my mud-encrusted trekking poles with sharp carbide tips was not an option, so I mailed them home. But for destination hikers flying to, and back from, a trail, mailing may not be feasible. It is possible to check trekking poles in baggage or a cardboard poster tube, but additional baggage fees can make this a less attractive option.
To Use Poles or Not?
At the end of the trail, individual hikers and backpackers have to weigh the numerous benefits of trekking poles against any drawbacks, both ecological and practical. Increased trekking pole sales suggest that many hikers and backpackers find that the enhanced stability and cardiovascular benefits of poles significantly outweigh the occasional inconveniences. For the vast majority of hikers, trekking poles are helpful and recommended.
In addition to stability and fitness, poles have other benefits worth considering. For example, some trekking poles can be converted into monopods for photographers, and some backpackers use trekking poles as tent pole substitutes to pitch shelters.
If you’re still unsure about trekking poles, borrow a pair and give them a try. “I’ve always heard other hikers talking about how great trekking poles were for their knees, but I didn’t become a believer until I tried them out myself,” said Ivan Levin, Program Director at the National Park Foundation and frequent hiker. “They make a big difference for my knees and are useful around camp. Now, I hit every trail with trekking poles in hand.”
If you’ve decided that trekking poles are the way to go, now it’s time to go out and confront the wide variety of brands, types, and styles of trekking poles available and select a pair of your own.
Trekking Poles: Parts Explained (Part 2) by Seth Levy
Trekking poles have become more complicated than the single-piece hiking staffs they’ve largely replaced. With the wide variety of styles, features, and brands available, deciding which trekking poles are the “right” ones for you, may seem overly complicated. Here’s a primer on the parts of a trekking pole: from strap and grip down to basket and tip.
The Grip
Grips come in different sizes, shapes, and materials. Since this is where your body meets the pole, it’s important to find a grip that fits and works for you.
The grip of your trekking pole should feel comfortable immediately, without causing any undue pressure or pinching. Ergonomic grips have a slight forward lean for a more natural hand position.
Some grips have raised ridges, and these ridges don’t necessarily match every hiker’s hand. You’ll know in a second if the grip is too large, or has ridges that don’t work for you. Hikers with smaller hands, like children and women, should consider poles with smaller grips.
Grips are made of various materials, including rubbers, foams, cork compositions, and plastics, which have different levels of grippiness. A grip should provide a comfortable hold, despite perspiration and rain.
Avoid cheap poles with smooth plastic handles, which can cause sweaty or gloved hands to slip off the pole. Rubbers, foams, and cork compositions are better choices because they retain more grip when wet.
On the lower-priced end, rubbers retain some grip when wet and are less expensive. Cork retains more grip when wet, is lighter, and costs a bit more. Foams retain the most grip and are the lightest, but are less durable.
Some poles feature “grip extensions,” where the grip compound extends down the shaft of the pole. Hikers who change their hand positions often or walk trails with dramatic elevation changes may appreciate this feature.
The Strap
A snug (not tight), comfortable strap offers support.
Trekking poles typically are equipped with adjustable wrist straps at the top of the grip. Properly adjusted straps offer support, so you don’t have to grip the pole too tightly and fatigue your hand. Many hikers feel that straps should always be worn as they offer support, are useful in maintaining a good cadence, and make the trekking poles harder to drop.
Some hikers dislike the confining feeling the straps give them though, and either cut them off or just don’t use them. If the consequences of falling on a pole would be worse than the consequences of falling without their stabilizing assistance, they may be a temporary hindrance.
In order to give straps a fair shake, you need to adjust them properly. Put your hand through the appropriate strap from the bottom (note that straps are right- or left-specific) so it rests snugly around your wrist. Then grasp the grip and top of the strap with your hand. Too loose straps are a common mistake. A properly adjusted strap is tight enough to help support the weight of your hand on the pole, but not so tight that it’s difficult to remove or restricts circulation to the hand.
Strap preferences develop over time, so ensure that the straps on your trekking poles are comfortable. Bare nylon can chafe hands, so look for straps that have a soft chamois or fleece liner or padding on the inside to reduce friction. Test the mechanism that adjusts the length and tension of the strap around the wrist to ensure that it’s easy to adjust, even with gloves on, yet stays secure while hiking.
The Shaft Segments
Segments adjust for height and collapse for travel and storage.
The shaft segments of a trekking pole are made from a variety of materials, including aluminum and carbon fiber. Many people will be satisfied with an aluminum pole, but Gregg Fisher, Operations Manger at Leki, says, “If you want the lightest weight possible, carbon fiber is the way to go.”
Carbon fiber absorbs vibration, and has a nice springy feel. Keep in mind, though, that carbon fiber saves only several ounces per pole, costs more, and tends to be fragile. Fisher cautions that if carbon poles are “struck hard with a sharp rock, they might develop a weak spot” prone to breakage, whereas, “aluminum will just bend.” If your only reason for choosing carbon fiber is weight, consider that other features like shock absorbers and baskets can impact the total weight of the poles as much as shaft material.
Most telescoping trekking poles, aluminum and carbon alike, have three segments, each slightly narrower than the one above. The segments slide into each other and are held together by a variety of locking mechanisms. A few models available, often specifically designed for
snowshoeing, have only two shaft segments. Two-segment poles don’t collapse as well as three-segment poles, making them harder to travel with or stuff into a pack during a rock scramble. Compact and junior length poles are available for those who don’t need as much pole length. Tall individuals will want the longest poles available.
The internal locking mechanism is…inside.
Locking Mechanisms:
Internal vs. External
A crucial and differentiating feature between trekking poles is the locking mechanism, which allows hikers to adjust the length of the trekking pole and holds the segments of the pole together. Until recently, internal locking mechanisms were the most common. Internal locks rely on friction to stay secure. A common internal locking mechanism is an “expansion joint,” essentially a plastic widget that expands inside the trekking pole when the shaft is twisted, keeping the pole at the desired length and preventing it from collapsing.
Where internal locking mechanisms are hidden inside, external lockingmechanisms are clearly visible outside of the pole, where the segments join. Black Diamond has long produced trekking poles with the FlickLock external locking mechanisms.
An unlocked external locking mechanism
Tor Brown, Category Manager at Black Diamond, notes that the external locking mechanisms used by Black Diamond are “easier to adjust with gloves on, and because they are external, it’s easy to verify whether or not they are locked.” Leki introduced its own external locking mechanism, the SpeedLock, in 2010.
External locking mechanisms are indeed easier to operate with gloves, and can be easier to tighten than their internal counterparts. Many hikers believe that they are more reliable and less prone to collapsing. But, some longtime hikers question their durability over time.
Both internal and external types of locking mechanism allow poles to be easily disassembled, and both have their passionate adherents and detractors. The choice between mechanisms is likely a matter of personal preference. Regardless of your choice, it is very important to verify that the pole is securely locked. A loose lock can cause the pole to collapse when you need it most.
Shock Absorbers
A look at an internal shock absorber
The advent of shock absorbing technology separates trekking poles from their ancestors, walking sticks. Shock absorbers are springs or pieces of elastic material that, according to Fisher, “soften the initial impact of the pole striking the ground.”
Shock absorbers are not standard on most trekking poles, so you can expect to pay approximately twenty dollars or so more for poles that include them over rigid poles.
Are they worth it? As with many features on gear, shock absorbers have both their detractors and their devotees. On the up side, hikers with arthritis or other issues in the wrist, shoulder, or elbow may appreciate the cushion that shock absorbers provide. On the down side, shock absorbers add weight and complexity to trekking poles, and sometimes squeak.
Additionally, shock absorbers can reduce the assist that poles provide on ascents. As hikers climb uphill, they can use poles to push off and up, making the ascent easier. But with shock absorbers, a fraction of that push is soaked up by compressing the shock absorber, making the ascent more difficult. Is it noticeable? Not always, but hikers who want every advantage should consider this.
Baskets
Small baskets for three-season hiking can be replaced with snow baskets in winter.
Slots on the body of tips allow hikers to add baskets, little discs of plastic like those commonly found on ski poles. Baskets come in various sizes and shapes — from low-profile circles or cones to wide snow baskets for powder — and prevent the tips of the poles from plunging too deeply.
Whereas larger baskets are best for snow, smaller baskets are best for muddy conditions and can prevent pole tips from getting wedged between roots and rocks. Be aware that accessory baskets from one trekking pole brand may not be compatible with another brand’s poles.
The Tip
The tip is where the pole interacts with the ground, and is typically made with a body and a point. The body is usually plastic and the point is often hardened steel. Hardened steel is harder than rock, so it bites into rock or ice to offer additionally stability.
For trekking above treeline in places like New Hampshire, Colorado, or the High Sierra, where the trail surface may be bare stone, hardened tips are useful. However, because they are so sharp, improperly used tips can scar rock or puncture the unwary hiker, so use them with caution.
A replaceable tip
Most trekking poles have tips that are easy to remove and replace. Hikers should avoid poles with non-replaceable tips, as tips are more susceptible to breakage than the rest of the pole and all tips wear out eventually. The body portions of some tips are cleverly sacrificial, made of a plastic weaker than the shafts of the pole. So, if the tip becomes stuck in a crack, the body of the tip breaks before the pole shaft. With replaceable tips, it’s simple to knock off the broken one and replace it with new ones from the manufacturer.
A variety of rubber tips, designed for use on pavement or indoors, are available to fit over the typical sharp steel tip. Some hikers use rubber tips to reduce the noise the poles make on the trail and to prevent them from scarring rocks and terrain. However, rubber tips also reduce the tips’ traction and can the cause tips to slip when you need them to stay put. Some manufacturers do not recommend them for trail use.
Special Features
Some shelters, like the Tarptent Sublite, are designed to be pitched with trekking poles.
Some trekking poles are equipped with special features. Poles with compasses embedded in the grips are increasingly common. These give a general sense of direction, but are inadequate for real navigation. Sometimes poles are even equipped with LED flashlights or secret storage areas, but most of these features fall firmly in the realm of the gimmick.
More common, and useful, are poles that are convertible to monopods for photographers. These poles have screws that fit the universal mount on a camera’s bottom, stabilizing it for shooting in low light or with long lenses.
Additionally, some backpackers use trekking poles as tent pole substitutes to pitch lightweight tarps and tents. Some shelters actually are designed to utilize trekking poles, and some hikers jury-rig their regular shelters to take advantage of trekking pole support. Using a trekking pole to pitch your shelter doesn’t require a special type of pole, but consider that tight guy-lines can cut foam grips, so cork or rubber composites are often a better choice.
Trekking Poles: Fit, Maintenance, and Tips
by Seth Levy
You’ve purchased a brand new pair of shiny trekking poles. Now that you have them in hand, how do you get the most value out of them? Proper fit, maintenance, and correct use are all key.
Fit and Adjustment
First, take a moment to get comfortable with your trekking poles by reading the instruction manual provided by the manufacturer. Sure, trekking poles appear to be relatively simple pieces of gear, but reading the directions now can prevent a screw up later. Also, the manufacturer will know the equipment best.
Know Thy Locks
Get comfortable with the locking mechanisms on your poles. Proper adjusting and locking requires this, so fiddle with them a bit until you feel comfortable re-adjusting on the trail. With external locks you usually can adjust the tension of the locking mechanism by turning the adjustment screw a fraction of a turn.
Proper Length
Trekking poles are adjustable to accommodate hikers of different heights, participating in different activities, on different terrain. Adjusting the poles is easy, but you’ll want to determine which length is most comfortable.
When adjusting pole length, aim for a 90-degree bend of the arm, then adjust for comfort
Gregg Fisher, Operations Manager at Leki, recommends that hikers “start with the pole adjusted so that your elbow forms a 90 degree angle, and then adjust it according to what’s comfortable.” Many hikers like to make poles slightly longer for a steep downhill and slightly shorter for a steep uphill. I’ve even heard of hikers adjusting poles to different lengths for a long traverse where one side of the trail is lower than the other.
How to adjust the length of your trekking poles depends on your model (so read the instructions):
Tor Brown, trekking pole line manager at Black Diamond, points out that most three-section poles require you to adjust both the lower and the middle shaft sections to marked lengths. In this case, loosen the locks and adjust both sections to the desired total length (ex. 120 cm). Lock each segment securely. Holding the grip of the pole, your elbow should be bent at approximately a 90-degree angle and your forearm perpendicular to the ground. Fine tune the length as needed. Once it’s comfortable, take note of the numbers written on the side of the pole. Knowing them will allow you to quickly adjust the second pole to the same length.
A few poles are designed to have their lower section extended to the maximum length first. In this case, extend the bottom segment to its maximum extension, almost until the point where the shaft is marked “stop” (if you extend the pole beyond this point the locking mechanism won’t work and the pole could collapse). Use the pole’s locking mechanism to tighten the bottom segment firmly. Next, holding the grip of the pole, use the middle segment to lengthen the pole until your elbow bends at a 90-degree angle. Fine tune as needed.
Since the steps to adjust the length and lock a trekking pole depend on the model, read the manufacturer’s instructions. For example, on poles with Black Diamond’s FlickLock-AutoBinary combo, the lower segment fully extends or collapses the pole with a two-finger pinch of the AutoBinary system. All of the length adjustment then takes place on the upper section of the pole with the FlickLock.
Master the Straps
For support, put your hand through the trekking pole strap from the bottom, not top.
When properly adjusted, pole straps offer support, so you don’t have to grip the pole too tightly and fatigue your hand. Some hikers find them restrictive however.
Whether you use the straps on your trekking poles comes down to preference, but give them a fair shake first by putting them on correctly.
Put your hand through the appropriate strap from the bottom (note that straps are right- or left-specific) so it rests snugly around your wrist. Putting your hand through the top will not provide the necessary support.
Grasp the grip and top of the strap with your hand.
Tighten or loosen the strap as needed. Too loose straps are a common mistake. A properly adjusted strap is tight enough to help support the weight of your hand on the pole, but not so tight that it’s difficult to remove or restricts circulation to the hand.
Maintain and Repair Your Poles
Get Familiar
With occasional maintenance, trekking poles should last a long time. Disassemble the poles when you don’t have any hikes planned and have a few hours to spare. Look at the locking mechanisms, the tips, and the straps. Getting familiar with the inner workings of the poles will help you maintain and repair them.
Clean and Dry
Fisher and Brown both recommend that after getting poles wet or dirty, hikers disassemble them, pulling the shafts apart. Then wash them under water, wipe them off with a clean cloth, and let them air dry before re-assembly. Storing poles wet encourages oxidation, which makes poles harder to adjust and more subject to slipping.
Repair and Replace
On aluminum poles, slight bends can be bent back by hand unless they no longer slide well in the other shafts. Several trekking pole manufacturers and their dealers sell spare parts like replacement baskets (in a variety of sizes and styles), replaceable tips, shafts, and expansion locks for their trekking poles. Check that the replacement parts work with the brand and model year of trekking poles you have before purchasing.
To Oil or Not?
What about a little spritz of oil to freshen up the pole? “Absolutely not,” says Leki’s Fisher, noting that oil can cause the joints to slip during use, creating a potential injury. The Leki team should know about maintenance: every year at the Appalachian Trail Days festival in Damascus, Va., they repair more than 400 sets of poles, some so battered, according to Fisher, “you can’t even tell what brand they are.”
Black Diamond advises that a small drop of oil can be applied to the lever pin if the FlickLock mechanisms become hard to open or close. Use sparingly though and never put oil or silicone on the pole shafts.
Tips and Tricks for Using Poles
Poles have a learning curve and for some users they may feel clumsy and frustrating at first. Expect this and consciously develop a method to use them. Soon, this will become unconscious and the poles will just become part of your hiking experience.
Master Basic Techniques
Start Easy:
Stick to level trails your first time out with poles and give your gait time to adjust. Pay attention to where your arms swing as you walk and think about how the poles will affect your movement.
Ascend:
As you climb, place your pole ahead of each foot and slightly tense your biceps, pectorals, and laterals (side muscles), using the force of these muscles to help lift yourself uphill. You may need to breathe more deeply to compensate.
Descend:
Carefully place your pole tips before, and lower than, your footsteps, tensing your shoulders slightly as you descend. You should use your upper body to absorb some of the force of your descent.
Cruise:
As you walk along a flat stretch, swing and place your poles in time to your stride.
Rock:
As you ascend or traverse a rocky surface, carefully set the tips of your poles into the rock, and experiment with the amount of support they give you. Carbide tips can anchor into rock and provide important stability.
Trust Fall:
Try a controlled stumble and hold tightly to the grips of your poles. Learn to trust them so you can unconsciously rely on them for unanticipated trips and falls.
Master Advanced Techniques
When you are completely comfortable with your poles, you’re ready to try some slightly more advanced techniques.
Vault:
For little streams and puddles a bit too wide to step across comfortably, build up a bit of momentum, plant your poles slightly ahead of your stride, and vault the obstacle.
Corner:
When moving at a high rate of speed around a corner, plant one pole on the inside of the turn and use your momentum to “swing” you around the bend.
Accelerate:
When moving at a high rate of speed on flat trail, set your pole tips slightly behind your stride and push yourself forward vigorously. You don’t have to be a hiker to appreciate poles; some trail runners in ultras have been known to use trekking poles during races (when the rules allow).
Know When to Quit:
Poles actually can slow you down or create hazards in some terrain, like scrambling up rocks, navigating ladders, or bushwhacking through dense vegetation. Figure out when they don’t help, and learn to stow them rapidly.
Think of Alternate Uses:
Look at other gear items, like your pack, tent, or tarp. Poles can be used for pack stays, tent poles, tarp supports, camera monopods, and many other things. Alternative uses will give you even more value from your poles, and potentially you can carry less weight.
Have your own trekking pole tips and tricks for usage, repair, or maintenance? Share them below.
Water
Whether you’re skiing in Colorado, mountain biking in Utah, trekking in India or Nepal or hiking National Park, you need to drink a lot of water at high altitude compared to what you would normally drink at lower levels. Drinking too little water can quickly lead to dehydration at altitudes above 5,000 feet.
Defining High Altitude
The International Society for Mountain Medicine defines high altitude as between 5,000 and 11,500 feet, very high altitude as between 11,500 and 18,000 feet, and extreme altitude as any height above that. The higher you go, the greater the effects on your body and the more important it is to stay hydrated.
Effects of Altitude
Humidity is lower at higher altitudes. Sweat evaporates quickly and you may not realize how much water you are losing through exertion. The lower oxygen levels also make you breathe in and out faster and more deeply, so that you lose more water through respiration. According to the Wilderness Medical Society, you lose water through respiration at high altitude twice as quickly as you do at sea level. High altitude can also make you need to urinate more often and can blunt your thirst response, putting you at even greater risk of dehydration.
Dehydration and Altitude Sickness
Not only is dehydration risky on its own, but it can mask or worsen the symptoms of altitude sickness, a potentially life-threatening condition that can affect some people at altitudes higher than 8,000 feet. Dehydration and altitude sickness can both cause nausea, headaches and fatigue. Drinking a lot of water does not help prevent or alleviate altitude sickness. The only cure for altitude sickness is to descend to a lower altitude.
How Much Water to Drink
According to the Institute for Altitude Medicine, plan to drink an extra 1 to 1.5 liters of water daily when at high altitude. At altitudes above 10,000 feet, you may also need to increase your intake of carbohydrates, so the Wilderness Medical Society recommends drinking a total of 3 to 4 liters daily of liquids containing 200 to 300 grams of carbohydrate. While it is important to drink enough water, drinking too much can be dangerous because it can dilute your body’s sodium levels, leading to weakness, confusion and seizures, according to the IAM. A good way to check if you’re well-hydrated is to check your urine. If your urine is dark rather than clear, you are dehydrated and need to drink more.
Layering Tips
Article source from : REI Website
Layering your clothing is a tried-and-true way to maximize your comfort in the outdoors. The
beauty of this simple concept is that it allows you to make quick adjustments based on your
activity level and changes in the weather.
Base Layer: Insulation
Each layer has a function. The base layer (against your skin) manages moisture; the insulating
layer protects you from the cold; the shell layer (outer layer) shields you from wind and rain.
You simply add or subtract layers as needed.
For a deeper understanding, read on.
Your Base Layer: Moisture Management
This is your next-to-skin layer. It helps regulate your body temperature by moving perspiration
away from your skin.
Keeping dry helps you maintain a cool body temperature in the summer and avoid hypothermia in
the winter. If you’ve ever worn a cotton T-shirt under your raincoat while you hiked, you probably
remember feeling wet and clammy, even though you weren’t getting wet from the rain itself.
Cotton is a fabric that retains perspiration and can leave you chilled.
For outdoor comfort, your base layer should be made of merino wool (popularized by brands
such as SmartWool, Ibex and Icebreaker), synthetic fabrics (polyesters such as Polartec Power
Dry® or Patagonia Capilene®) or, for less-active uses, silk. Rather than absorbing moisture, these
fabrics transport (or “wick”) perspiration away from your skin, dispersing it on the outer surface
where it can evaporate. The result: You stay drier even when you sweat, and your shirt dries
faster afterwards.
Examples: A base layer can be anything from briefs and sports bras to long underwear sets (tops
and bottoms) to tights and T-shirts. It can be designed to fit snugly or loosely. For cool conditions,
thermal underwear is available in light-, mid- and expedition-weights. Choose the weight that best
matches your activity and the temperature.
Your Middle Layer: Insulation
The insulating layer helps you retain heat by trapping air close to your body.
Natural fibers such as wool and goose down are excellent insulators. Merino wool sweaters and
shirts offer soft, reliable warmth and keep on insulating even when wet. For very cold and dry
conditions, goose down is best. It offers an unbeatable warmth-to-weight ratio and is highly
compressible. Down’s main drawback is that it must be kept dry to maintain its insulating ability. A
new innovation—water-resistant down—promises to change this.
Classic fleece such as Polartec® 100, 200 or Thermal Pro polyester and other synthetics such as
Thinsulate® provide warmth for a variety of conditions. They’re lightweight, breathable and
insulate even when wet. They also dry faster and have a higher warmth-to-weight ratio than even
wool. Classic fleece’s main drawbacks are wind permeability and bulk (it’s less compressible than
other fabrics).
Like thermal underwear, fleece tops are available in 3 weights:
Lightweight for aerobic activity or mild climates.
Midweight for moderate activity or climates.
Expedition-weight for low activity or cold climates.
Examples:
: For high-energy activities such as cross-country skiing, cycling or running, choose
lightweight fleece (Polartec 100 or Power Dry) to avoid overheating. For cold conditions, try
thicker fleece such as Polartec 200 or 300.
Wind fleece such as Polartec WindPro® polyester or Gore WindStopper®adds a high level of wind
resistance to fleece. How? It uses a hidden membrane that does not affect breathability.
Shop REI’s selection of men’s fleece or women’s fleece garments.
Your Shell Layer: Weather Protection.
Top Layer or Outer Layer :
The shell or outer layer protects you from wind, rain or snow. Shells range from pricey
mountaineering jackets to simple windproof jackets. Most allow at least some perspiration to
escape; virtually all are treated with a durable water repellent (DWR) finish to make water bead
up and roll off the fabric.
An outer shell is an important piece in bad weather, because if wind and water are allowed to
penetrate to your inner layers, you begin to feel cold. Furthermore, without proper ventilation,
perspiration can’t evaporate but instead condenses on the inside of your shell.
Fit is another consideration. Your shell layer should be roomy enough to fit easily over other layers
and not restrict your movement.
Shells can be lumped into the following categories:
Waterproof/breathable shells:
The most functional (and expensive) choices, these are best
for wet, cool conditions and alpine activities. Shells using laminated membranes such as Gore-Tex
and eVent offer top performance; those using fabric coatings are a more economical alternative.
Shells are categorized by REI as either rainwear, which emphasizes low weight and packability,
or mountaineering wear, which is more abrasion-resistant and has additional features.
Water-resistant/breathable shells: These are best for light precipitation and high activity
levels. Less expensive than waterproof/breathable shells, they’re usually made of tightly woven
fabrics (such as mini-ripstop nylon) to block wind and light rain.
Soft shells:
These emphasize breathability. Most feature stretch fabric or fabric panels for added
comfort during aerobic activities. Many offer both shell and insulative properties, so they in effect
combine 2 layers into 1. Soft shells include cold- and mild-weather options.
Waterproof/non-breathable shells:
These economical shells are ideal for rainy days with light
activity (e.g., fishing, sports viewing). They are typically made of a sturdy, polyurethane-coated
nylon which is water- and windproof.
Insulated shells:
Some outer shells have a layer of insulation built in—such as fleece—making
them convenient for cold, wet conditions, but not as versatile for layering in fluctuating
temperatures.
Diamox
Article Source from : www.webmd.com
Before taking any decision please note: Discuss the risks and benefits with your family doctor.
Please feel free to give feedback and suggestions in comment box for benefits for others,
Uses:
Acetazolamide is used to prevent and reduce the symptoms of altitude sickness. This
medication can decrease headache, tiredness, nausea, dizziness, and shortness of breath that can
occur when you climb quickly to high altitudes (generally above 10,000 feet/3,048 meters). It is
particularly useful in situations when you cannot make a slow ascent. The best ways to prevent
altitude sickness are climbing slowly, stopping for 24 hours during the climb to allow the body to
adjust to the new height, and taking it easy the first 1 to 2 days.
This drug is also used with other medications to treat a certain type of eye problem (openangle glaucoma). Acetazolamide is a “water pill” (diuretic). It decreases the amount of fluid that
can build up in the eye. It is also used to decrease a buildup of body fluids (edema) caused
by congestive heart failure or certain medications. Acetazolamide can work less well over time, so
it is usually used only for a short period.
It has also been used with other medications to treat certain types of seizures (petit mal and
unlocalized seizures).
OTHER USES:
This section contains uses of this drug that are not listed in the approved
professional labeling for the drug but that may be prescribed by your health care professional. Use
this drug for a condition that is listed in this section only if it has been so prescribed by
your health care professional. Acetazolamide may also be used to treat periodic paralysis.
How to use Diamox
If you are taking the tablets, take this medication by mouth, usually 1 to 4 times daily or as
directed by your doctor. If you are taking the long-acting capsules, take this medication by mouth,
usually 1 or 2 times daily or as directed by your doctor. Swallow the long-acting capsules whole.
Do not open, break, or chew the capsules. Doing so can destroy the long action of the drug and
may increase side effects.
Acetazolamide may be taken with or without food. Drink plenty of fluids unless otherwise directed
by your doctor. Your dosage is based on your medical condition and response to therapy.
To prevent altitude sickness, start taking acetazolamide 1 to 2 days before you start to climb.
Continue taking it while you are climbing and for at least 48 hours after you have reached your
final altitude. You may need to continue taking this medication while staying at the high altitude
to control your symptoms. If you develop severe altitude sickness, it is important that you climb
down as quickly as possible. Acetazolamide will not protect you from the serious effects of severe
altitude sickness. (See also Precautions.)
If you are taking this drug for another condition (e.g., glaucoma, seizures), use this medication
regularly as directed to get the most benefit from it. To help you remember, take it at the same
time each day. Taking your last dose in the early evening will help prevent you from having to get
up in the middle of the night to urinate. Consult your doctor if you have questions about your
dosing schedule.
Do not increase or decrease your dose or stop using this medication without first consulting your
doctor. Some conditions may become worse when this drug is suddenly stopped. Your dose may
need to be gradually decreased.
When used for an extended period, this medication may not work as well and may require
different dosing. Your doctor will be monitoring your condition. Tell your doctor if your condition
does not improve or if it worsens (e.g., more frequent seizures).
This drug may reduce the potassium levels in your blood. Your doctor may recommend that you
eat foods rich in potassium (e.g., bananas or orange juice) while you are taking this medication.
Your doctor may also prescribe a potassium supplement for you to take during treatment. Consult
your doctor for more information.
Side Effects
Dizziness, lightheadedness, and an increased amount of urine may occur, especially during the
first few days as your body adjusts to the medication. Blurred vision, dry mouth, drowsiness, loss
of appetite, stomach upset, headache and tiredness may also occur. If any of these symptoms
persist or worsen, notify your doctor.
Remember that your doctor has prescribed this medication because he or she has judged that the
benefit to you is greater than the risk of side effects.
Tell your doctor right away if any of these very unlikely but serious side effects occur: increased
body hair, hearing loss, ringing in the ears, unusual tiredness, persistent nausea/vomiting,
severe stomach/abdominal pain.
Seek immediate medical attention if any of these unlikely but very serious side effects occur: easy
bleeding/bruising, fast/irregular heartbeat, signs of infection (e.g., fever, persistent sore throat),
mental/mood changes (e.g., confusion, difficulty concentrating), severe muscle cramps/pain,
tingling of the hands/feet, blood in the urine, dark urine, painful urination, yellowing of
the eyes/skin.
A very serious allergic reaction to this drug is unlikely, but seek immediate medical attention if it
occurs. Symptoms of a serious allergic reaction may include: blisters/sores in
the mouth, rash, itching/swelling (especially of the face/tongue/throat), severe dizziness, trouble
breathing.
This is not a complete list of possible side effects. If you notice other effects not listed above,
contact your doctor.
Precautions:
Before taking acetazolamide, tell your doctor if you are allergic to it; or if you have any
other allergies. This product may contain inactive ingredients, which can cause allergic reactions
or other problems. Talk to your doctor for more details.
This medication should not be used if you have certain medical conditions. Before using this
medicine, consult your doctor if you have: adrenal gland problems (e.g., Addison’s disease), low
blood levels of sodium or potassium, severe kidney disease, severe liver disease (e.g., cirrhosis),
certain metabolic problems (e.g., hyperchloremic acidosis).
Before using this medication, tell your doctor, especially of: breathing problems (e.g.,
emphysema, chronic bronchitis), high levels of calcium, dehydration, diabetes mellitus, gout,
narrow-angle glaucoma, overactive thyroid (hyperthyroidism).
While this medication can help you get used to high altitudes and help you tolerate quick climbs, it
cannot completely prevent serious altitude sickness. Symptoms of serious altitude sickness may
include: severe shortness of breath, mental/mood changes (e.g., confusion, difficulty
concentrating), lack of coordination/staggering walk, extreme tiredness, severe headache.
If you develop any of these symptoms, it is very important that you descend to a lower altitude as
quickly as possible to prevent serious, possibly fatal problems.
This drug may make you dizzy or drowsy or cause blurred vision. Do not drive, use machinery, or
do any activity that requires alertness or clear vision until you are sure you can perform such
activities safely. Limit alcoholic beverages.
To minimize dizziness and lightheadedness, get up slowly when rising from a seated or lying
position.
This drug may rarely make your blood sugar levels rise, causing or worsening diabetes. Tell your
doctor right away if you develop symptoms of high blood sugar such as increased thirst or
tiredness.
If you already have diabetes, be sure to check your blood sugar levels regularly. This medication
may also cause your blood sugar levels to fall. Symptoms of low blood sugar include
fast/pounding heartbeat, shakiness, hunger and sweating. It is a good habit to carry glucose
tablets or gel to treat low blood sugar. If you are in a situation where you don’t have these
reliable forms of glucose, eat a quick source of sugar such as table sugar, honey, or candy, or
drink a glass of orange juice or non-diet soda to quickly raise your blood sugar level. Tell your
doctor right away about the reaction.
This medication may make you more sensitive to the sun. Avoid prolonged sun exposure, tanning
booths and sunlamps. Use a sunscreen and wear protective clothing when outdoors.
This medication should not be used in children less than 12 because it may affect normal growth.
This medication should be used with caution in the elderly because they may be more sensitive to
its side effects, especially low potassium or sodium levels.
This medication should be used during pregnancy only if clearly needed. Discuss the risks and
benefits with your doctor.
This medication passes into breast milk but is unlikely to harm a nursing infant. Consult your
doctor before breast-feeding.
What should I know regarding pregnancy, nursing and administering Diamox to children or the
elderly?
Interactions
Drug interactions may change how your medications work or increase your risk for serious side
effects. This document does not contain all possible drug interactions. Keep a list of all the
products you use (including prescription/nonprescription drugs and herbal products) and share it
with your doctor and pharmacist. Do not start, stop, or change the dosage of any medicines
without your doctor’s approval.
Some products that may interact with this drug include: cisapride, methenamine, anticonvulsants
(e.g., phenytoin, primidone, phenobarbital, topiramate, zonisamide), digoxin, drugs that cause
loss of potassium (e.g., diuretics such as furosemide, corticosteroids such as prednisone,
amphotericin B), lithium, memantine, quinidine, salicylates (e.g., aspirin, bismuth subsalicylate),
sodium bicarbonate, tricyclic antidepressants (e.g., amitriptyline).
Check all prescription and nonprescription labels carefully since they may contain medications
(e.g., anti-diarrhea drugs, pain relievers/fever reducers) similar to aspirin, which can cause serious
side effects when taken with acetazolamide. Low-dose aspirin, as prescribed by your doctor for
specific medical reasons such as heart attack or stroke prevention (usually at dosages of 81-325
milligrams per day), should be continued. Consult your doctor for more details.
Check the labels on all your medicines (including NSAIDs such as ibuprofen, naproxen) because
they may contain ingredients that could worsen control of your edema. Ask your doctor for more
details.
This medication may interfere with certain laboratory tests, possibly causing false test results.
Make sure laboratory personnel and your doctor know you use this drug.
Overdose
If overdose is suspected, contact a poison control center or emergency room right away.
Notes
Do not change brands or dosage forms of this medication without consulting your doctor. Not all
forms of this medication work the same way.
Do not share this medication with others.
Laboratory and/or medical tests (e.g., blood count, minerals such as potassium and sodium, liver
function tests) may be performed from time to time to monitor your progress and check for side
effects. Consult your doctor for more details.
Missed Dose
If you miss a dose, take it as soon as you remember. If it is near the time for your next dose, skip
the missed dose and resume your usual dosing schedule. Do not double the dose to catch up.
Storage
Store at room temperature away from light and moisture. Do not store in the bathroom. Keep all
medications away from children and pets.
Do not flush medications down the toilet or pour them into a drain unless instructed to do so.
Properly discard this product when it is expired or no longer needed. Consult your pharmacist or
local waste disposal company.
Information last revised February 2016.
Shoes
Types
Components
Fit
Choosing the right hiking boots is a matchmaking process. Your dream hiking boots need to sync with how and where you hike. Before you tie the knot, though, you also have to be sure they’re a perfect fit.
Types:
You have a dizzying array of choices, from ultralight trail shoes to mountaineering boots.
Components:
Understanding a little more about what goes into uppers, lowers, midsoles, outsoles and other parts of a boot can help you refine your selection.
Fit:
No one ever loved a pair of ill-fitting boots. The difference between blisters and bliss is taking the time to get a great fit.
Types of Hiking Boots
Hiking shoes:
Low-cut models with flexible midsoles are excellent for day hiking. Some ultralight backpackers may even choose trail-running shoes for long-distance journeys.
Day hiking boots:
These range from mid- to high-cut models and are intended for day hikes or short backpacking trips with light loads. They often flex easily and require little break-in time, but they lack the support and durability of stout backpacking boots.
Backpacking boots:
These are designed to carry heavier loads on multiday trips deep into the backcountry. Most have a high cut that wraps above the ankles for excellent support. Durable and supportive, with stiffer midsoles than lighter footwear, they are suitable for on- or off-trail travel.
Hiking Boot Components
Hiking Boot Uppers
Materials impact a boot’s weight, breathability, durability and water resistance.
Full-grain leather:
Full-grain leather offers excellent durability and abrasion resistance and very good water resistance. It’s most commonly used in backpacking boots built for extended trips,
heavy loads and rugged terrain. It is not as light or breathable as nylon/split-grain leather combinations. Ample break-in time is needed before starting an extended trip.
Split-grain leather:
Split-grain leather is usually paired with nylon or nylon mesh to create a lightweight boot that offers excellent breathability. Split-grain leather “splits away” the rougher inner part of the cowhide from the smooth exterior. The benefit is lower cost, however, the downside is less resistance to water and abrasion (though many feature waterproof liners).
Nubuck leather:
Nubuck leather is full-grain leather that has been buffed to resemble suede. It is very durable and resists water and abrasion. It’s also fairly flexible, yet it too requires ample time to break in before an extended hike. Synthetics: Polyester, nylon and so-called “synthetic leather” are all commonly found in modern boots. They are lighter than leather, break in more quickly, dry faster and usually cost less. Downside: They may show wear sooner due to more stitching on the outside of the boot.
Waterproof membranes:
Boots and shoes billed as “waterproof” feature uppers constructed with waterproof/breathable membranes (such as Gore-Tex® or eVent®) to keep feet dry in wet conditions. Downside: The reduced breathability created by a membrane (compared to the ventilating mesh used on some non waterproof shoes) may encourage feet to sweat on summer days.
Vegan:
Vegan-friendly hiking boots and shoes are made without any animal ingredients or byproducts.
Insulation:
Synthetic insulation is added to some mountaineering boots for warmth when hiking on snow and glaciers.
Hiking Boot Midsoles
The midsole, which provides cushioning, buffers feet from shock and largely determines a boot’s stiffness. Stiff boots might not sound like a good thing, but for long hikes on rocky, uneven terrain they can mean greater comfort and stability. A stiff boot won’t allow your foot to wear out by wrapping around every rock or tree root you step on. The most common midsole materials are EVA (ethylene vinyl acetate) and polyurethane.
EVA
EVA is a bit cushier, lighter and less expensive. Midsoles use varying densities of EVA to provide firmer support where needed (e.g., around the forefoot).
Polyurethane
Polyurethane is generally firmer and more durable, so it’s usually found in extended backpacking and mountaineering boots.
Hiking Boot Internal Support
Shanks:
These 3–5mm thick inserts are sandwiched between a boot’s midsole and outsole to add load-bearing stiffness to the midsole. They vary in length; some cover the entire length of the midsole, while others only cover half.
Plates:
These thin, semiflexible inserts are positioned between the midsole and the outsole, and below the shank (if included). They protect feet from getting bruised by roots or uneven rocks.
Hiking Boot Outsoles
Rubber is used on all hiking boot outsoles. Additives such as carbon are sometimes added to backpacking or mountaineering boots to boost hardness. Hard outsoles increase durability but can feel slick if go you off trail.
Lug pattern:
Lugs are traction-giving bumps on the outsole. Deeper, thicker lugs are used on backpacking and mountaineering boots to improve grip. Widely spaced lugs offer good traction and shed mud more easily.
Heel brake:
This refers to the clearly defined heel zone that is distinct from the forefoot and arch. It reduces your chance of sliding during steep descents.
Crampon Compatibility
If you plan to do mountaineering or winter backpacking, having compatible boots and crampons is essential for your safety.
Hiking Boot Fit
Hiking boots should fit snug everywhere, tight nowhere and offer room to wiggle your toes. Try them on at the end of the day (after feet swell) and with the socks you plan to wear.
Know your size.
It’s best to have your foot’s length, width and arch length measured on a specially calibrated fit device. Foot volume, another key to good fit, must be assessed by a specialist at a store.
You can also measure your foot length and use sizing charts to find your size. Double-check length later by pulling the insoles out of the boots and standing on them; you should have a thumb’s width of space between your longest toe and the end of the insole.
Try on boots at the end of the day.
Your feet normally swell a bit during the day’s activities and will be at their largest then. This helps you avoid buying boots that are too small.
If you wear orthotics, bring them along.
They impact the fit of a boot.
Wear appropriate socks.
Familiar socks help you more quickly assess the fit and feel of new footwear. Make sure the thickness of the socks matches what you intend to wear. And on the trail, go with synthetic rather than slow-drying cotton socks, which are more likely to give you blisters.
Spend some time in the boots.
Take a stroll through the store. Walk up and down stairs. Find an inclined surface and walk on it.
Fit issues to share with your footwear specialist:
You don’t want to feel odd bumps or seams, or pinching in the forefoot, nor toes hitting the end of the boot when it’s on an incline. If the boots are laced firmly and you still feel space above the top of your foot, then the volume of the boot is wrong.
When shopping online, consider a brand you’ve worn before.
Most boot companies tend to use a consistent foot model over time, so the fit is likely to be similar.
Consider aftermarket insoles (a.k.a. footbeds).
Insoles come in models that can enhance comfort, support or fit—or all three.
Walkie Talkie
Who invented the walkie-talkie?
Walkie-talkies (originally called two-way radios or “pack sets”) were invented in 1937 by Canadian Donald Hings (1907–2004) and, around the same time, by American inventor (Irving) Alfred Gross (1918–2000). Both men saw their inventions developed for military use during World War II; both went on to devise numerous other inventions: Gross is credited with inventing pagers, which were a popular way of staying in touch on the move before cell phones became ubiquitous, while Hings developed numerous improvements to radio, radar, magnetic ground-surveying devices, and equipment for measuring air pollution (he has 39 different inventions listed at the US Patent and Trademark Office).
What is a walkie-talkie?
Do you read me, over? Yes, I read you, over. If you’ve never had the pleasure of communicating by walkie-talkie, you don’t know how much fun you’ve been missing! Before cell phones became popular during the 1980s and 1990s, walkie-talkies were the most effective way to share information over short to medium ranges—and they’re still widely used by police officers, military personnel, and the organizers of public events. What are they and how do they work? Let’s take a closer look! Walkie-talkies are handheld, portable radios: they communicate wirelessly (using radio waves) on a single, shared frequency band. Each battery-powered unit contains a transmitter/receiver and antenna (for sending and receiving radio waves), a loudspeaker that often doubles up as a microphone when you talk into it, and a button that you “push-to-talk” (PTT). The loudspeaker/microphone works in much the same way as an intercom: because a speaker and a microphone contain essentially the same components (a coil of wire, a magnet, and a paper or plastic cone to pick up or generate sounds), you can use a single device to do both jobs essentially by switching the electrical circuit into which it’s connected and reversing the current. More sophisticated walkie-talkies (like the Motorola model shown in our photos) contain separate loudspeakers and microphones.
How do you use a walkie-talkie?
A group of people who are using walkie-talkies to talk to one another have to tune in to the same frequency band, which is called a channel. Their radios are all “receiving,” so their microphone/loudspeaker units are working as loudspeakers and probably hissing with static, a bit like a conventional radio that’s not tuned into any particular station. When someone wants to to talk to the others, they hold the push-to-talk button on their handset. Their radio goes quiet as their loudspeaker switches over to a microphone. As they talk into it, their words are converted into radio waves and beamed out on the prearranged channel (typically at a frequency around 460 MHz). Since radio waves are part of the electromagnetic spectrum, they travel at the speed of light (300,000 km/second or 186,000 miles/second), so the waves are picked up almost instantaneously by the other handsets. The radio waves are converted back into fluctuating electric currents and the loudspeakers use those to reproduce the sound of the talker’s voice. When the talker has finished, he or she says “over” (meaning my bit of talking is finished) and releases the push-to-talk button. The radio now switches back into listening mode and someone else can talk.
Parts:
1.Antenna: Sends and receives radio waves.
2. LCD display: Shows channel number, remaining battery life, and so on.
3. Monitor: Switches the walkie-talkie to monitoring mode so it can be used as a listening device or baby monitor.
4. Menu select buttons (marked with plus and minus symbols).
5. Menu button: Used for changing functions and settings. Can also be used to lock the keypad to prevent the channel or other settings from changing accidentally while the radio is in your pocket.
6. Loudspeaker.
7. Push-to-talk (PTT) button.
8. On/off switch and volume control.
9. LED indicator light shows when channels are busy.
10. Microphone: Unlike some models, this walkie-talkie has a separate loudspeaker and microphone.
11. Transmit call tone: This sends a tone signal to other radios on the same channel alerting them that you want to talk.
The basics of two-way radios apply across the board, so let’s start with frequencies:
UHF or VHF?
Walkie-talkies That aren’t toys, are not cheap, you’ll want to spend wisely to avoid having to live with a mistake. A critical point in choosing the right two-way radio knows that UHF is going to be your best bet in most circumstances.
Note: UHF radios will never be able to communicate with VHF radios! So, if you already have radios and are looking to purchase additional units to use with them, be sure to select the same band.
UHF
UHF radios (Ultra High Frequency) operate on frequencies from 400 to 512 Megahertz (MHz).
UHF radios work best for most two-way radio users because the waves are shorter and can get around or penetrate areas of interference found in buildings, thickly wooded or hilly areas and urban outdoor settings. UHF walkie-talkies with a good-sized antenna and enough power will reach further into a building and push through and around steel, concrete, wood and earth. If your two-way radios are going to be used exclusively indoors or if they’ll need to go indoors and outdoors, UHF is hands down your best choice.
VHF
VHF radios (Very High Frequency) operate between 136-174 MHz. The advantage to a VHF walkie-talkie is that it can cover more distance with less power because VHF waves are longer and remain closer to the ground. Two-way VHF radios work best when there’s a clear line-of-sight between the sender and the receiver with little obstruction. VHF radios are used exclusively in aviation and marine communications where signals are sent across open bodies of water or between the sky and the ground. VHF band walkie-talkies are also great for open fields, golf courses, landscaping and for outdoor security situations with few obstacles. Typically, VHF antennas are longer than those built into UHF radios because they need to facilitate transmission over longer distances and accommodate the VHF frequency range. Another benefit of VHF waves is that they will penetrate trees and foliage better than UHF radios. However, you will be better served with UHF radios, if you have any plans to use the radios indoors or indoors to outdoors.
FRS/GMRS or Business Radios?
Thinking about FRS/GMRS instead of UHF or VHF?
FRS:
(Family Radio Service) and GMRS radio are covered below in detail. However, you will want to make one important decision early on: if you are purchasing radios for a business, definitely buy Business Radios. Motorola FRS/GMRS radios are basically one step above toys. They’re built for occasional, recreational family use and do a great job for what they’re intended, but they’re not built to endure the hardships inherent to business usage. FRS/GMRS radios used on a regular basis for business-type purposes will typically break within a relatively short time. Business Radios, on the other hand, will generally last years.
Bottom-line?
Over a 5 year period, you’ll spend less on quality Business Radios versus what you’d spend replacing lower cost, but less durable Family Radios. Also, use of Family Radios for business purposes voids their warranty.
What is a Real World Range for a Two-way Radio?
Some two-way radio manufacturers boast a coverage range of 25 miles or more on their packaging. They can legally claim that because that’s the best possible range attainable under the best possible conditions:
a clear day with an unobstructed line of sight. But really, will you be broadcasting from the top of a mountain down an obstacle free line of sight to your kids or employees in a valley? Didn’t think so. Outside of optimal test conditions, realistic ranges for handheld Business Radios vary from 1-4 miles depending on the power capabilities of the unit, weather conditions and obstructions along the way. In a nutshell, the more power (wattage) the radio puts out, the stronger the signal. The stronger the signal, the more reliable the reception at greater distances and with more obstacles. Businesses or municipalities in need of longer range communications can boost their signal with repeaters or work using a trunking system system. Repeaters and trunking systems significantly increase the cost of radio setup versus handheld-to-handheld communication; however, they are necessary for large scale, emergency communication operations such as fire and police departments.
Power: What’s in a Watt?
Handheld two-way radios use between .5 watts to 5 watts of power to broadcast a signal. Business Radios run between 1 – 5 watts depending on the model. Usually, a higher wattage allows for greater range and commands a higher price. Current FRS models broadcast at .5 watts. Many of those also broadcast in GMRS frequencies at 1 watt. FRS/GMRS radio users will need an FCC license, if their radios are used on the GMRS band. You may see something labeled ‘peak wattage’ on the packaging of some two-way radios. Peak wattage refers to the highest possible wattage for that radio, but may not reflect its actual, consistent operating power. A radio running at 1 consistent watt will, in some circumstances, perform better than a radio rated to 5 watts of peak power. Typically a 1 Watt walkie-talkie with an average number of obstructions in its path yields about a mile of coverage. Range increases by approximately 30-50% if you double power. So, a 2 Watt walkie-talkie might broadcast within a range of 1.5 miles. 3 watts = 2 miles. 4 watts = 2.5 miles. 5 watts = 3 miles. Actual distances may vary widely based on weather, UHF vs. VHF, etc. But these are good, general rules of thumb. However, a 1 watt walkie-talkie broadcasting from a high vantage point (think radio tower on the top of a hill) could easily broadcast 10 miles if unobstructed. A lot lies in the lay of the land. For consistent coverage, if you anticipate using your walkie-talkies within a single building with an average number of obstructions or solid walls, or just need an outdoor coverage of a mile or less, then a 1watt radio should be just fine. If you’ll be talking between buildings or for up to 2 miles outdoors, then you’ll want to buy 2 watt radios. Four and five watt radios cover still greater distances outdoors and between 350,000 sq.ft or 30 floors indoors. Beyond that, you’ll need the help of a repeater, a mobile unit mobile unit or a base station base station to communicate further. Try to keep in mind that there may be ‘soft spots’ in coverage. Meaning, that you may get great coverage in a building complex with a 1 watt UHF radio, but there may be trouble between the basements of building A and building C. If this is the case, and those locations are important, increasing your wattage may help. Considering the relatively low incremental cost of stepping up your wattage, it is generally best to purchase a little more wattage than you think you will actually need. Again, communication may happen at much greater distances, but not on a consistent basis due to obstructions, weather changes, etc. The key is to find the proper power level for your needs and get as close to 100% coverage as possible in your setting.
When Size Matters
In an office or the middle of a hectic event, you’ve got enough to juggle without throwing in a big, bulky walkie-talkie. Fortunately, traditional two-way radios come in sizes as small as 5.8” by 4.6 oz and the surprisingly small Motorola CLP series radios weigh in at a mere 2.38 oz and stand 3.5 x 2.0 x .75! How do they make a radio so small? They embed the antenna inside the device. This cuts down on the range of this particular model, but in a setting with typical use of this type of radio, the range will be more than sufficient. That’s the catch with the smaller models: reducing antenna and transmitter size requires some compromises in range. If you’re working in a medical or dental office, a restaurant, retail store, hotel, on a photo shoot or catering an event where you don’t require a lot of range; small two-way radios offer
the perfect solution.
Durability Does It
Some two-way radios get into more trouble than others. Employees drop them onto concrete warehouse floors, into mud at job sites and you can’t take a ski trip without snow! When durable radios are a concern, look for two-way radios in “brick” form that don’t feature a digital display. Brick format is usually the best choice when you know the radios will be treated roughly. Please note that brick format radios may still be used with similar radios that use a display. Often, construction workers and forklift drivers, for instance, might get a brick format radio, while the supervisor might use a digital display for channel-changing convenience. The brick format also makes the radio simpler to use as there are no displays or additional information. Radios built to military specifications military specifications are rated for dust, shock and moisture and can handle their business under harsh conditions. Two-way radios that are intrinsically safe rated ‘intrinsically safe’ are designed not to ignite in combustible environments. Most radios come with a belt holster. To increase the life of any walkie-talkie, consider carrying it in a high-end protective case.
Clearing Up Confusion: Channels, Frequencies and “Privacy Codes” The terms channel and frequency are often used interchangeably, even by the FCC. This can get confusing. Be sure to read the sections below for clear definitions that will ensure you make the right choice and that you understand how to use your new two-way radios.
What is a Frequency?
In technical terms, a frequency is the rate at which a switch, called an oscillator, inside a radio turns on and off. To learn more on frequencies and early radios check out: The Evolution of Radio. You had your first exposure to choosing a radio frequency, when you tuned to a specific number on your radio dial like 530 AM (530 kHz) or 103.3 FM (103.3 MHz). Two-way radios operate using frequencies also. When you buy a radio, you can tune the channels of your radio to the different frequencies permitted for that type of radio and your FCC license,
What is a Channel?
Channels are a way to partition a two-way radio, so that its user can communicate with multiple people without everyone talking over each other and having to worry about who talks when. Imagine the chaos if there were no phone numbers and everyone just picked up the phone and started talking! Of course, there aren’t as many two-way radio channels or frequencies as there are phone numbers, so walkie-talkie users have to make some adjustments, but there are dozens and dozens of possible frequencies from which to choose. Users select their choice, from the frequencies available to them, and lock it into partitions called “Channels.” In a typical 4-channel two-way radio two-way radio, the user has 4 possible channels to tune to frequencies for the radios in that group. Once clear frequencies are selected, all radios in the group would choose the same frequencies for the same channel numbers. For instance, in a restaurant, the kitchen staff would be on Channel 1, the waiters on Channel 2, the car valets on Channel 3 and maintenance on Channel 4. The manager could scan between all channels to hear all that is going on. But, the waiters could set the radios to only tune to Channels 1 and 2; so that they only hear other waiters and the kitchen staff, but not the unneeded talk from the valets or maintenance staff. Before shipping, all radios of a brand and model are typically set to the same frequencies and channels in the factory. A common issue with new radio users is that they often use their radios right out of the box with the factory settings for frequency and channel on Channel 1 unchanged. Using your new radio without changing the factory set channel frequencies greatly increases the possibility of nearby, similar radios interfering with each other because those users also probably didn’t change their factory settings. Your best bet: set your channels to frequencies that are clear of other users in your area as part of your initial radio setup. In short: Channels are partitions of your radio that you can and should tune to different frequencies. Besides surfing around for a chatter-free frequency, another way to filter out other people’s broadcasts uses “privacy codes.”
Privacy Codes?
More like Interference Elimination Codes – Privacy Line Codes (PL), Tone, Squelch Codes, Quiet Talk Codes (QT), Interference Elimination Codes. There are more than a few names for them in the
two-way radio industry. Privacy codes is the most common name, but interference elimination codes would be more accurate. Though they greatly reduce the odds of your conversation getting stepped on by someone else’s broadcasts; they don’t guarantee privacy. For more detailed information on how privacy codes work visit privacy codesTo communicate using privacy codes, you and the person you’re talking with must have your radios set to the same frequency and the same privacy code e.g. both radios set to Frequency 462.5625, Privacy 13. Depending on the type of radio you buy (analogue or digital) you may have access to between 38 and 121 privacy codes. Multiply the number of privacy codes available for your radio, by the number of frequencies allotted to the type of radio service you use and you’ll have anywhere from 500 to 3,000 or more chances to have an uninterrupted conversation! Just remember that privacy codes increase your odds of not being interrupted, but they don’t guarantee it. If someone within range has their walkie-talkie set to the same frequency and the same privacy code as yours, they could hear and join in your conversation. With so many frequencies and privacy codes the odds are slim, but still present. If someone has their radio set to the same frequency, but not the same privacy code they will be able to hear your conversation, but they won’t be able to join in. Analogue two-way radio privacy codes range from 1-38. In general, manufacturers use them in a standardized way allowing for radio compatibility across brands. Digital two-way radio privacy codes are numbered from 39 and can go as high as 99, 121 or higher. However, digital privacy codes don’t always map across manufacturers, so your digital two-way radios, with digital codes, may not be able to communicate using privacy codes with radios made by other manufacturers.
Quick Summary:
Channels are partitions of your radio that you tune to different frequencies which you can then subdivide, for more potential lines of communication, by using privacy codes.
Selecting a Clear Channel
All two-way radios come with a monitor function. When activated, it overrides all programmed code settings and allows the receiver to hear what’s happening on any frequency. On a clear frequency, you’ll hear hiss. If a frequency is in use, you’ll hear what’s being broadcast. It’s important to check the frequency and privacy code you intend to use and select clear frequencies to set your channels. You don’t want to risk missed messages or radio interference.
How Many Channels Do You Need?
Be sure to think ahead. A critical consideration for an enduring investment in quality two-way radios is anticipating how many people or groups of people will need to communicate now and in the future. Several popular models only have one or two channels; as that can be plenty for smaller businesses who are likely to only ever assign one or two groups of people to a channel. The average commercial grade radio offers 2-16 channels, which is typically more than enough for most handheld-to-handheld operations. Heavy duty radios heavy duty radios used by fire and police departments, may have up to 256 different channels.
Radio Service Bands and FCC Licensing
The Federal Communications Commission (FCC) is an independent government agency charged with managing public use of the radio spectrum. As it applies to two-way radios, the FCC allocates certain bands of frequencies to particular types of users and regulates the equipment that may be used to transmit and receive radio communications. Widely used two-way radio service bands are FRS (Family Radio Service), GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service), BRS (Business Radio Service), eXRS (Extreme Radio Service), and MURS (Multi-use Radio Service). The GMRS and BRS radio service bands require a license granted by the FCC license granted by the FCC.
FRS: Family Radio Service
It’s important to note that FRS radios are intended and designed for family recreational use only. These radios are basically one step beyond toys. They won’t hold up to the rigors of regular business use and are very likely to break after weeks or months, if used daily. If you’re using radios in any business setting, it’s more cost effective in the long run to purchase durable Motorola Business Radios. According to the FCC, the Family Radio Service may be “used by family, friends and associates to communicate within a neighborhood and while on group outings with a communications
range of less than one mile. However, using these radios in other countries may present a legal issue. The radios will always work together anywhere on the planet. However, you’ll want to check first with the equivalent of the FCC for any country in which you plan to travel with your radios. Frequency allocations for other destinations may, for instance, have our FRS frequencies designated for a local fire department or business band. FRS operates on 14 dedicated frequencies between 462.5625 – 467.7125 MHz. FRS radios and radios broadcasting on FRS frequencies are not allowed to broadcast above .5 watts (500 milliwatts). FRS radios may not use a detachable antenna or a repeater station. If you’d like to see more details on this subject, click here for more FRS radio information. FRS radios frequently have GMRS channels, as well, and can communicate with GMRS radios on the frequencies they share. GMRS: General Mobile Radio Service The FCC states that General Mobile Radio Service is also intended for family use. GMRS radios are “available for short-distance two-way communications to facilitate the activities of an adult individual and his or her immediate family members, including a spouse, children, parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, nephews, nieces, and in-laws” to “communicate among yourselves over the general area of your residence or during recreational group outings, such as camping or hiking.”
GMRS
Operates on 23 frequencies between 462.5625 – 467.7250 MHz. Seven of these frequencies are shared with the FRS frequencies. They may not and will not broadcast using more than the .5 watts of power allotted for FRS use. Handheld units generally transmit 1 – 5 watts of power. GMRS radios may use detachable antennas and repeater stations. You can use any approved GMRS unit in the US and handheld GMRS units only in Canada. If you’d like more details on GMRS band use, click here for more GMRS Information to use GMRS frequencies you must buy a license from the FCC. The FCC grants the GMRS license to an adult (18 years old) for five years. Their family members (described above) are eligible to use the radio under their license. Luckily, there is no test required. It’s simply a matter of submitting the paperwork and paying the $85 fee. Click GMRS license for more details. GMRS license GMRS radios can communicate with FRS radios on the frequencies they share.
FRS/GMRS Hybrid Radios
FMRS/GMRS walkie-talkies are dual-service radios that allow users to communicate using either FRS or GMRS frequencies: 462.5625 – 467.7125 MHz Users are still required to have an FCC license to transmit over the GMRS band. Though it’s not regularly policed, if you’re caught using the GMRS band without a license you would be subject to FCC fines enforceable by law. However, no license is necessary if you only use the FRS frequencies. FRS/GMRS radios with a higher wattage potential are designed to power down to the .5 watt maximum when broadcasting on the 7 FRS frequencies. FRS/GMRS hybrid radios are able to communicate with FRS, GMRS and other FRS/GMRS hybrid radios.
BRS: The Industrial/Business Radio Pool Service
Most two-way radio guides you’ll find on the Internet won’t cover this, so be sure to keep reading and find out if your business is eligible for access to the frequencies in this pool. According to the FCC, “licensees in the Industrial/Business Radio Pool use radio to support business operations. Their communications systems are used for support of day-to-day business activities, such as dispatching and diverting personnel or work vehicles, coordinating the activities of workers and machines on location, or remotely monitoring and controlling equipment.” Use of these requencies requires an FCC license.
Batteries: Li-Ion, NiCad or NiMH?
Lower end FRS/GMRS walkie-talkies might use AA or AAA batteries, but most two-way radios use one of 3 types of batteries: NiCad, NiMH or Li-Ion. Ni-Cad or nickel-cadmium batteries have been around the longest. They have a long life expectancy and are less prone to the problems associated with overcharging. They are the cheapest battery chemistry of the thre . However, they are also the heaviest and tend to be susceptible to ‘memory burn.’ Memory Burn occurs when a battery is recharged before it’s fully discharged. The battery will ‘remember’ the partial charge and only fill up that far the next time it is being recharged. This shortens the power potential of the battery to that smaller, partial amount. To avoid memory burn, it’s best to fully discharge your batteries before recharging them. If proper care is taken, Ni-Cad batteries can last 2 – 3 years.
Nickel Metal Hydride batteries share some chemistry with Ni-Cad batteries, but don’t share their vulnerability to memory burn. Nickel Metal Hydride batteries are a bit more expensive and are more susceptible to overcharging issues, but they are smaller and lighter. They typically last 1 – 2 years. Li-Ion batteries are the most expensive of the three. They don’t get memory burn and are the smallest and lightest of the bunch. However, they are limited to a specific number of charging cycles and once that number is reached (500, 750, 1000) they won’t take another charge. Also, their advanced chemistry means they require a special type of charger, but it can have them up and running in as little as an hour. Batteries are built on a basic calculation of 5/5/90. Battery manufacturers assume the battery will have a duty cycle of 5% talk-time, 5% listening time, 90% standby. References you may see as to the battery duration of X number of hours are typically based on the 5/5/90 assumed usage.
Battery Life: Stay Safe Out There!
Hardcore
Hikers, workers in remote locations, workers using heavy talk-time, or people working for more than an 8-hour shift should carefully consider battery life when buying two-way radios. You don’t want to get cut-off from communications if your battery dies. If you live and work in remote and/or heavy battery use situations, you will want to have additional, fully charged batteries handy. When things get crazy, waiting to charge your only battery is not what you want to be doing. It’s important to note that the higher the wattage of your walkie-talkie, the more quickly it drains power. Look for two-way radios that switch to a power saver mode in between broadcasts. Most radios offer a battery indicator light or meter to signal how much power is left. Some vibrate or emit a low tone when battery levels drop. Another good feature to look for if your walkie-talkie uses a Ni-Cad battery is a rapid discharge button. Rapid discharge helps condition your battery, to avoid memory burn and extends its life expectancy.
Useful Two-way Radio Features
Two-way radio manufacturers offer an avalanche of options when it comes to bells and whistles on walkie-talkies. Naturally, different users need different functionalities from their radios; so here are some of the most popular choices. For a longer list, click two-way radio features.
Display Screens
The latest two-way radios show vital information at a quick glance on a display screen. Offerings may include: clocks, stop watches, timers, and alarms; weather information including altimeters and barometers; a digital compass; battery levels, transmit and receive signal indicators and more. Look for an LCD (liquid crystal display) that’s backlit, making it easier to read in diverse lighting conditions.
VOX Versus PTT Microphones
Great for wire-pullers, crane operators, hunters, skiers and workers who have their hands full. VOX automatically sends the unit into transmit mode when it detects speech in the direction of the microphone. No need to push to talk! VOX definitely has its advantages, but can also cause confusion, if it picks up conversation that is not meant to be transmitted. Look for “VOX” in the microphone’s description, if automatic transmission is a feature that interests you. If you would prefer to transmit only when you specifically act to communicate over the radio, which is the standard, look for PTT. This stands for Push-to-Talk. Typically, the user presses a small button next to the mic or a button on the radio to speak. Otherwise, no conversation or noise is transmitted. Some microphone models offer both options that can be set to preference. With most Motorola radios, when the microphone is plugged-in, a long press on the radio talk button will put the mic into VOX mode and a tap on the talk button will put the mic back into PTT mode.
Keypad Lock
If your walkie-talkie regularly walks a bumpy road, then you should choose this handy feature that locks down your keypad to prevent unintended changes to your channel settings.
Weather Channels
Don’t let Mother Nature catch you off guard! Get the latest NOAA (National Oceanic Atmospheric Association) weather information delivered in real-time, direct to some models of FRS and VHF business two-way radios.
Ring Tones and Silencers
Several two-way radio models allow you to designate differing ring tones for members of your party – just like a cell phone. You can also set the unit to vibrate, illuminate or simply do nothing at all, if a call comes in when stealth counts.
Out of Range Alerts
Set your walkie-talkies to alert you and your party when one of you wanders out of communication range.
Eavesdrop Reducer (Also Known as Scrambling)
A feature on higher-end units, voice-inversion technology is used to scramble communications transmitted by people on the same channel and privacy code. Using the same eavesdrop reducer setting, channel and privacy code can prevent other radio users from listening in on your conversations.
Handy Accessories
Walkie-talkie manufacturers and third parties make many products that expand the ease and usability of your two-way radios. Be sure to double-check that the accessories you buy will work with the two-way radios you own. Each model displayed on the website, for a longer list and more information click two-way radio accessories. Also note that many manufacturers’ warranties become void, if accessories from other companies are used.
Microphone Check!
Tap. Is this thing on? Speaker microphones, headsets and earpieces add a big advantage in loud or low noise environments. Select your microphone for your comfort using either PTT (Push-to-Talk) or VOX (Voice Activated) capabilities. Handsfree mics allow you to – literally – keep busy on the task at hand. They come in a few different configurations: the secret-service style ear tubes, wired with over-the-ear hooks like with many mp3 players or the shoulder models popular with firefighters and police. Click for more on microphone models.
Holsters and Belt Clips
Quick draw holsters and belt clips ensure you’re never fumbling around to respond or communicate. Your two-way radio is at your side, right where you left it. Radios come with basic holsters from some dealers and these are typically fine for everyday use. If your radio does duty in a rugged environment, a fully-enclosed leather or hard case can add years to its life.
Antennas
Antennas do the job of sending, receiving and converting the radio waves required to communicate. They come in different configurations and lengths and some have extensions that can be placed on internal or outdoor surfaces. These antenna extensions can boost range, but they are only practical for fixed-position radios like base-units and are not usually meant for handheld radios. Antennas are critical to penetration of obstacles and materials in the environment. For an in-depth discussion of technology, functionality and choices of antennas,
Why Use Two-way Radios Over Cell Phones?
Location! Location! Location! Cell phones just don’t work everywhere. Dead zones, breaking up: No bars, means no talking. Not with two-way radios, as long as you’re in range of your party, you’re in communication. With walkie-talkies there are no contracts, no fees, no monthly bill! Two-way radios are easy to use and come with loads of handy features. They also come with parts and labor warranties. Motorola offers a 1-year replacement warranty for defects. Your typical cell phone
warranty lasts 90 days.There’s no dialing individual numbers, with two-way radios you just Push to Talk! You can reach everyone in an instant with a walkie-talkie and that can be critical in an emergency. Using some two-way radio’s ‘selective calling’ features you’re able to choose to speak with certain groups of people or even privately with one person. With walkie-talkies, you get the best of both worlds. Two-way radios rated to military specifications and/or intrinsically safe intrinsically safe go where cell phones can’t: dusty, dirty, wet or combustible environments. When disaster strikes, cell phone networks become overloaded fast. Two-way radios ensure you have access to information and communication when others don’t. Having two-way radios around can keep your family safe and your business in operation when everything else goes south.
Benefits for Business
Two-way radio communication brings a whole host of benefits to businesses. When your employees use walkie-talkies, you’re just a Push to Talk button away from the ‘the back’ of the warehouse where you can instantly access needed information or call-in an extra pair of hands. You’ll see: Suddenly work becomes so much easier when you don’t have to make that extra trip! However, if you’re tempted to cut corners with a consumer grade radio, you should think twice before spending your money. Walkie-talkies tailored for business are built to take a heavier beating than radios designed for ‘occasional use.’ Business walkie-talkies broadcast on more channels, come with more advanced features and are engineered for the higher sound quality needed in work environments. Business grade radios typically last through years of daily use. Durability is what makes Business Radios less expensive than FRS radios in the long run, because they are built to last, while other models (designed just a step above toys) wear out quickly with regular use. Two-way radios streamline operations, so your business builds its reputation on quick and convenient customer service. Booming business means big bottom lines. When you reduce employee hours and overhead, your bottom line grows even bigger.
AMS
Please read it carefully if you are going for high altitude treks:
Before you go for High Altitude Trek, please consult your family doctor,
also article is open for discussion and suggestion, please feel free to comment below:
Article source from : Internet
The popularity of adventure travel is increasing. As a result greater numbers of people are travelling to altitudes of 2500 metres (8,000 feet) or above each year. However, there are risks associated with climbing to altitude. Acute mountain sickness (AMS) can be unpleasant and may reduce enjoyment of activities. In addition, if it is not managed appropriately it can result in more serious illness which can lead to death. An understanding of the prevention and recognition of AMS is important to anyone travelling to high altitude.
What is acute mountain sickness (AMS)?
As you climb or travel (ascend) to altitude the air becomes thinner. Due to the lower pressure of the air, there is less oxygen available per breath.
This lack of oxygen triggers changes in your body to help it adjust to its new environment. These normal changes are ‘acclimatization’. This means that your body is changing to help manage the new conditions. Changes include breathing faster than usual, getting more short of breath with increased activity (exertion) and passing urine more frequently.
AMS may be experienced when your body is not acclimatized to the altitude.
What are the symptoms of acute mountain sickness (AMS)?
The main symptom is headache, which is as a result of mild swelling of the brain, caused by the reduced oxygen levels. This can vary in severity. Rarely, people can experience more severe swelling leading to a condition called high altitude cerebral edema (HACE).
For a diagnosis of AMS to be made you need a headache plus one other symptom from:
- Poor appetite.
Feeling sick (nausea).
Being sick (vomiting).
Feeling tired (fatigue) or weak.
Dizziness/light-headedness.
Difficulty sleeping.
If you experience any of these symptoms at altitude and wonder whether you have AMS, you can score yourself to find out.
How do I calculate my own score?
The Lake Louise score is a scoring system used to make a diagnosis of acute mountain sickness (AMS). This is something you can do yourself to decide how severe your symptoms are and what they mean.
The scoring of AMS is as follows:
| Symptom | Severity | Score |
|---|---|---|
|
Headache |
|
|
|
Gut (gastrointestinal) symptoms |
|
|
|
Fatigue and/or weakness |
|
|
|
Dizziness/light-headedness |
|
|
|
Difficulty sleeping |
|
|
A total score of 3 to 5 = mild AMS and 6 or more = severe AMS. Remember that any symptoms at altitude are altitude illness until proven otherwise.
Common Things to Carry List
Important Equipment Things to Carry List – (You can Add or Delete according to your requirement)
| S.N. | Product Name | Available With you | Friends and Relatives | Purchase Prices are good quality Products – starting from Minimum | Rent Per day | Local Base Village Purchase |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
01. |
Backpack 50 to 70 Ltr. |
|
|
Rs.03,000.00 |
Rs.00,050.00 |
|
|
02. |
Small Bag or Knapsack 20 to 30 Ltr. |
|
|
Rs.01,000.00 |
Rs.00,050.00 |
|
|
03. |
Walking Pole |
|
|
Rs.00,600.00 Onwards |
Rs.00,200.00 For Total Trip |
|
|
04. |
Headlamp |
|
|
Rs.00,300.00 |
Rs.00,200.00 For Total Trip |
|
|
05. |
Water Bottle |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
06. |
Toiletry Pouch |
|
|
Rs.00,200.00 |
|
|
|
07. |
Thermal Set |
|
|
Rs.00,600.00 |
Rs.00,400.00 For Total Trip |
|
|
08. |
T. Shirts |
|
|
Rs.00,300.00 |
Rs.00,200.00 For Total Trip |
|
|
09. |
Fleece Jacket |
|
|
Rs.00,700.00 |
Rs.00,025.00 |
|
|
10. |
Feather Jacket |
|
|
Rs.08,000.00 |
Rs.00,050.00 |
|
|
11. |
Top Layer Jacket |
|
|
Rs.04,000.00 |
Rs.00,050.00 |
|
|
12. |
Poncho |
|
|
Rs.00,200.00 Plastic |
Rs.00,200.00 Nylon |
|
|
13. |
Sun Cap |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
14. |
Balaclava |
|
|
Rs.00,200.00 |
|
|
|
15. |
Buff |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
16. |
Goggle |
|
|
Rs.00,400.00 |
Rs.00,250.00 |
|
|
17. |
Eye Retainer |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
18. |
Woollen Gloves |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
19. |
Fleece Gloves |
|
|
Rs.00,200.00 |
|
|
|
20. |
Waterproof Gloves |
|
|
Rs.00,500.00 |
Rs.00,200.00 For Total Trip |
|
|
21. |
Waterproof Shoes |
|
|
Rs.03,500.00 |
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
22. |
Quick Dry Towel |
|
|
Rs.00,400.00 |
|
|
|
23. |
Cotton Socks |
|
|
Rs.00,050.00 |
|
|
|
24. |
Woollen Socks |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
25. |
Floaters |
|
|
|
|
|
|
26. |
Dry Bags |
|
|
Rs.00,250.00 |
|
|
|
27. |
Dry Snacks |
|
|
|
|
|
|
28. |
Personal Medicine |
|
|
|
|
|
|
29. |
Sunscreen Lotion |
|
|
|
|
|
|
30. |
Cold Cream Lotion |
|
|
|
|
|
|
31. |
Lip Gel |
|||||
|
32. |
Toilet Paper |
|||||
|
33. |
Toilet Kit (Tooth Brush + Paste Etc.) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
34. |
Hand Sanitizer |
|
|
|
|
|
|
35. |
Antibacterial Powder |
|
|
|
|
|
|
36. |
Small Cotton Bags for Small Small things |
|
|
Rs.00,200.00 |
|
|
|
37. |
Extra Cell for Camera / Headlamp |
|
|
|
|
|
|
38. |
Repair Kit and Tool |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
39. |
Multi-Purpose Knife |
|
|
Rs.00,150.00 |
|
|
|
40. |
Steel Mug for Soup / Tea etc. |
|
|
Rs.00,100.00 |
|
|
|
41. |
Folding Container for Food |
|
|
|
|
|
|
42. |
Binoculars |
|
|
|
|
|
|
43. |
Insect Repellent |
|
|
|
|
|
|
44. |
Memory Card / Power Bank |
|
|
|
|
|
|
45. |
Hidden Belt |
|
|
Rs.00,200.00 |
|
|
|
46. |
Original Photo I.D |
|
|
|
|
|
|
47. |
Steel Spoon Kit |
|
|
Rs.00,150.00 |
|
|
Feather Jacket Details
The Science Behind the Down Jacket
The most critical garment for outdoor enthusiasts is the Down Jacket. The garment has a hugely impressive warmth-to-weight ratio making it possible to keep warm in cold and dry conditions. Due to its enormous benefits adventure seekers have ventured higher in extreme cold winter conditions. In this photo blog Maninder Kohli shares the science behind the Down Jacket and offers guidance on getting the right one for the serious outdoor enthusiast.
Seema Jindal wearing a Canada Goose Women’s PBI Camp Down Hoody 750 Fill Duck Down as she poses on the trail to Goecha La
Maninder Kohli wearing an Arcteryx Cerium SV Hoody in January in Leh. The Down Jacket has a 850 Fill and the weight of the jacket is 400 grams will down weight of 160 grams.
Winter in Ladakh:
In recent years I have been heading out to Ladakh in peak winter with day temperatures hitting -15 deg C, using my trustworthy Down Jacket which keeps me warm and comfortable. It is interesting to observe what our local guide Scalden shows up in a jacket made of sheep wool. When temperatures drop further he switches to a similar jacket made of Yak Wool! The local jackets have an interesting look to them but weight a lot more and are not as compressible as a Down.
The Science of the Down Jacket:
Down is a soft, heat-trapping fluff from duck or geese that keeps them warm in the wild. Down Jackets work on the same principal and use this natural material as insulation because it’s great at locking in warmth. Each ounce of down has approximately two million fluffy filaments that interlock and overlap to create insulating pockets of air, which is what keeps you warm. Goose down is generally superior to duck down due to its larger down clusters. From 2014, many manufactures have adopted a regulation titled ‘Ethically Sourced Down’ which signifies that no live plugging took place to develop the Down Jacket.
The down from the belly of the bird makes its way into a Down Jacket.
| Fill Power | Description & Use |
|---|---|
|
Less than 600 |
Used In Cities For Day To Day Use |
|
600 – 700 |
Light & Warm Jacket For Mountain Use |
|
700- 800 |
Superior Warmth And Performance. Active Mountain Use Cold Camp Evening |
|
800 - 900 |
Exceptional Warmth & Weight Ratio, High Altitude Treks & Winter Expeditions |
Understanding Fill Power:
Two key aspects to check when buying a Down Jacket is the Fill Weight which measures the quantity of Down and the Fill Power which is based on the loft the clusters achieve-more air is trapped and more insulation is achieved. The higher the Fill Power number the warmer the jacket, keeping the quantity of Down fill constant. With high Fill Power numbers, such as 850, less Down is required for a given level of insulation. A Fill Power number below 700 in my opinion does not offer adequate warmth to weight ratio for high altitude or
On the Trail to Annapurna:
I recollect it was 2015 and we were heading on a trek to Annapurna Base Camp. Down Jackets had at that time become mainstream and trekkers were getting access to them. Several on our team acquired Down Jackets and when we reached higher camps they came our like a riot of colour. There was a fair amount of excitement as the jackets were put to work. As we went higher complaints started to come in as team members were still feeling cold. In our haste to get a Down Jacket we had got light jackets. In these jackets the Fill Power was high but the absolute quantity of Down Fluff was low. While the girls looked great they felt cold.
Team members sporting a variety of jackets on the trail to Annapurna Base Camp
Shamila Kohli wearing a Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Hoody with 800-fill Goose Down with a total weight of 600 grams.
Problem with the Parka:
Learning from the Annapurna experience, when it was time to get my wife a Down Jacket my desire was that she should not feel cold. I went for a warmer option, a Parkha which extends to the hip, to ensure that she is comfortable in the cold. We were heading to Nanda East Devi Base Camp and as temperatures dropped she whipped out the Down Jacket. She was pleased as she was super warm. But issues surfaced when she returned home and started to review the images. She felt the jacket bloated up and was
making her look very fat! My experience is that pleasing women is tougher than climbing Mt. Everest!
Quantity of Down:
When you look at the warmth level of a jacket the overwhelming variance comes in from the actual amount of Down fluff in the jacket. As you increase the quantity of Down feather the jacket becomes heavier but warmer. This table does a review of 4 men’s Rab jackets to show that while the Fill Power remains constant as you add the down fluff both the warmth level and the weight increase. Jacket Weight
Recent Innovation’s in Down Jackets :
One of the issues with the Down Jacket is that if it is subject to moisture the Down starts to clump up and the insulation gets badly compromised. To manage this issue some manufacturers are working on two areas, treating the Down before infusing it into the jacket and looking at the fabric to play a role in preventing moisture to gain contact with the Down.
Sumedha Sarogi standing on a frozen river in Ladakh in winter. She is wearing a Rab Women’s Infinity Alpine Down Jacket with 800 fill Goose Down with a filling of 162 grams and jacket weight being 490 grams. The Nikwax Fluorocarbon-Free Hydrophobic Finish of the down. External fabric is GORE-TEX INFINIUM™ WINDSTOPPER® fabrics.
Selecting your Down Jacket:
The 5 key aspects to keep in mind when selecting your Down Jacket if you are going to high altitudes or winter excursions :
- Go for a Down Jacket with Fill Power between 700 – 850
- Quantity of Down fluff should be more than 200 grams for a mens jacket
- Give preferences to Goose Down as compared to Duck Down.
- Use ethically sourced Down and Down feather treated for moisture protection
- Ensure your Down Jacket has a hood
Rajesh Pratap Singh on the descend from Green Lake, base camp of Kanchenjunga wearing a Rab Neutrino Pro Down Jacket with 800 fill Goose Down with a filling of 212 grams and jacket weight being 600 grams.
Shamila posing with the new The “7X1000” Ripstop nylon Puffer Jacket with 1000 Fill Power developed by Paul & Shark at our home in New Delhi
The 1000 Fill Jacket comes to New Delhi:
Paul and Shark have announced “7X1000” Ripstop nylon Puffer Jacket with 1000 Fill Power. The jacket uses Goose Down and I would describe it as a super light weight, water repellent, jacket to own!
Early Morning and Annapurna :
It was April 2015, 3 days before the worst earthquake in Nepal history would strike. I was keen on an early morning shot of the first light hitting the top of Annapurna. We were staying the night at the Annapurna Base Camp at 4000m. From 5 am, I waited in pitch darkness, with my Down for warmth. In my view temperatures would have been about -10 Deg C. All my efforts were rewarded as I got this fantastic shot.
First light striking the peak of Annapurna 8091m, the 10th highest mountain in the world as viewed from the southern basecamp
The Bali Pass Crossing :
On the Pass crossing day on Bali Pass we woke up at 3 am, the plan was to set off at 3.30 am. The outside temperature was biting cold at around – 5 deg C. We set out with our Down Jackets. As the sun emerged we had to took off the Down Jacket as it was getting warm. We finally reached the cold and windy Pass at noon. Our Downs went back on for the most tricky and technical descend.
Smita Aggarwal on the final approach to Bali Pass with Swargarohini dominating the background
Tired trekker Rohit Aggarwal rests on Bali Pass 4950m after an exhausting climb, Kalanag 6387m and Bandarpunch 6313m can be seen in the background.
The Story of Kuntal Joisher:
On May 19, 2016 Kuntal Joisher from Mumbai became the first Vegan to climb Mount Everest. When he reached the summit he was elated but carried a regret. Through the climb he had maintained a vegan diet but he had worn a Down Suit which contained bird fluff as that was the only option to manage the cold. This thought troubled him and he reached out to an organisation ‘Save the Duck’ which uses micro
fibres to mimic the look and feel of natural down. ‘Save the Duck’ developed for the first time ever a Synthetic Suit for mountaineering use. On May 23, 2019 Kuntal again reached the summit of Everest wearing a Synthetic Suit completing a personal goal of climbing Mt Everest without any animal or bird influence.
Kuntal
Kuntal wearing a regular Down Suit on Mt. Everest in 2016
On Mt. Everest in 2019 Kuntal wearing a Synthetic Suit by ‘Save the Down’.
On the trail to Green Lake, the Eastern basecamp of Kanchenjunga 8596m, the 3rd highest mountain in the world
Summary:
For critical outdoor products like a Down Jacket my view is to go for established brands from both a safety and value perspective. The coldest I have ever felt on a trek was at Green Lake when we were going to the Base Camp of Kanchenjunga. The altitude coupled with a higher humidity level in the Eastern Himalaya made even day temperates difficult to deal with. It’s in these kind of conditions where your gear gets well and truly tested and one realises the value of quality gear.
